Sunday, April 26, 2026

How to choose the tomatoes to grow

Potted volunteer tomato plant
Sunday, April 26, 2026

There are hundreds of tomatoes to choose from.  There are whole catalogues devoted just to America’s favorite home garden vegetable.  There really is nothing like a homegrown tomato, fresh off the vine!  With so many to choose from, how do you decide which is best for you and your garden?

Some considerations for deciding what to plant-space you have, flavor, how you use tomatoes, and which types grow best and give the biggest yields in your area.  Ask your neighbors or farmers market sellers which types they have found grow the best for them.  For heirloom and open pollinated types you buy from the farmers market, save the seeds from the ones you like and you can grow them in your garden!

I prefer heirloom and open pollinated, organic veggies.  I love the idea of seeds being handed down from generation to generation with loving care, through good times and bad.  Back in the day, every vegetable  and vegetable seed was precious.  You should save the seeds from your very best tasting, performing plant with the biggest fruits.  It was a sacrifice to take the biggest, juiciest fruit for its seeds.  Seeds were like gold back then.

Today, we save seeds from the best performers in our garden so year after year our veggies are better adapted to our specific garden conditions and tastes.  Seed saving-fun, easy and a cost saver

Chocolate cherry tomatoes
Family lore has it that my great grandfather killed a man in self defense when one of my great uncles stole some seeds the neighbor had ordered.  The neighbor came with a gun and confronted my great grandfather for the theft of his seeds.  The family had to leave the state, worried that the law would come after him.  At least, that is a story I heard told.........

For myself, I look for tomatoes that are disease resistant and can stand up to the crazy heat we are experiencing in our summers now.  Typical tomatoes become sterile when the temperatures average 85F.  We saw weeks where daytime highs were above 95F last summer.  

The second consideration for me is how I use the tomato.  I like to have 1 paste for canning (Italian Red Pear), 1 cherry type for salads (Chocolate Pear) and one for slicing tomatoes (Cherokee Purple).  My husband loves the slicers.  He has been growing a tomato patch for the last few years.  Up until this year he was growing them in upside down 5 gallon buckets.  Pots get hotter than soil so you get tomatoes earlier but the flowers go sterile quicker in the heat.  This year he is putting them in the ground.  We will grow 10-12 plants.

You may be surprised with my canning tomato choices.  I can all types of tomatoes.  I plant tomatoes that give lots with great taste and preserve all that we can't eat.  I try to have one paste per quart freezer bag as paste tomatoes give a silky sauce.   

I like growing the darker tomatoes since they are so healthy!  For more on the benefits of darker veggies, The Power of Purple  If you are curious on how the color of tomatoes affect its health benefits, 
Different colors in tomatoes give different nutrition or just a ranking on overall health benefits by type, 
 Most nutritious heirloom tomatoes  They even have tomatoes today that are bred specifically to increase the healthiness of the tomato!

 I get the best yields from the smaller tomatoes.  In the past, I used to get loads of tomatoes with Juliet (a hybrid, 1999 All American) and Yellow Pear (a heirloom from pre-1800).  Both are indeterminate, meaning they produce from summer through frost.  The Juliet is a mini Roma, great taste.  With the higher heat, the Juliet and yellow pear tomatoes have not been doing well in our garden.  I now grow Chocolate Pear every year for salads.

The smaller tomatoes are great for drying as well.  I like using my electric dehydrator for "sun dried" tomatoes as it is usually just too humid in the Midwest to dry tomatoes in the sun.  
Large heirloom Italian Red Pear tomato, good for sauce and slicing
For slicers, the heirloom Brandywine, dates back to 1885, is a taste favorite which we have grown many times.  It continues to win taste tests to this day.  My husband lovers Brandywine tomatoes so I start pink, red and a chocolate Brandywine every year for him.  I also start 1-2 Cherokee Purple slicer tomatoes as they produce sooner and seem to hold up to the heat.  

I started a few disease and heat resistant slicers this spring too to experiment.

Lately, I have been trying a different type of storage tomato so we have fresh tomatoes further into winter.  I haven't found one that I want to add every summer yet.

Just as a note, hybrids will not come back like its parent.  Be sure to save seed from heirloom or open pollinated types to be sure you will get what you expect.  Or if you like surprises, feel free to plant the seed and see what happens!  What do the terms GMO, natural, heirloom, organic, hybrid really mean?

If you are short on space, there are many dwarf and patio varieties that can even be grown in pots!  We have had good luck with Bush Early Girl (only 54 days ‘till ripe tomatoes), Patio, Husky Red, and heirlooms Lizzano and Tumbling Tom.  There are many more options!  Just keep in mind that the smaller plants will not produce as much as a huge plant.  
Compact tomatoes for small spaces and pots
Yellow Tumbling Tom, a dwarf variety
Just three tomato plants should give a family of 2 enough for eating, freezing for salsa, and canning.  You don't need many plants to get a whole lot of fruits!

For more on growing tomatoes, these blogs can help you get started growing your own tomatoes this season:

Sunday, April 19, 2026

Summer garden seeds started this week

Summer garden bed
Sunday, April 19, 2026

I started my larger summer seedlings outdoor this week.  I do the indoor seed starting routine for most of my edibles but the larger ones like cucumbers, squash, beans and melons I start outdoors in peat pots.  It is fun to go outside every morning and evening to see if I have any little green shoots poking through the soil.

I planted all my spring edibles indoors mid February.  I started my smaller summer loving seedlings indoors at the first of March.  You can start your spring crops outdoors, too.  I have done that in the past. 

Now that we are well past any chance of frost (our average last frost date is April 2) and they are not calling for any lows in the 30's for the next 2 weeks, I am going to start the bigger summer veggies on peat pots outdoors.  You can start them indoors and earlier but they grow so fast you need larger pots for them and they take up a lot of indoor space.  I just start them outdoors once it is warm.

 Beans-Planted snap and shell beans to climb up on a trellis. Going to go with asparagus beans as snap beans this year.  Replanting Chinese Red Noodle and adding Yancheng and Taiwan Black.  Shell beans are 1500 Year Old Cave Bean and Christmas Speckles lima bean. 

Cucumber-trying a few that are supposed to be disease and pest resistant this year.  Aonaga Jibai, Shintokiwa, White Heron and Poinsett 76.

Herbs-I started Cardinal basil, Purple Ball basil, Chinese Pink celery, Pink dandelion, Butterfly Papalo (heat loving cilantro substitute), Red Shiso, Chervil. 

Squash-Ayote Green Flesh winter squash, Zucchini Rampicante summer or winter squash, Zapallito Del Tronco summer or winter squash, Thai King Kok pumpkin, Buttercup winter squash. 

Melons-Lemon Drop watermelon and Kajari melon.

Okra-a Red Burgundy and Heavy Hitter.  Have tried Heavy Hitter before and it did not produce as well as advertised but thought I would try it again as I don't need that much okra anyway.

Flowers-Blue Queen butterfly pea vine, Chaters Double, Summer Carnival Blush Pink and Summer Carnival Yellow hollyhock, Empress of India and Sahin's Paso Double nasturtiums, Borage, Orange King zinnia.

Resow-Starting Regina alpine strawberry, OTV Brandywine tomato and Black goji berry again.

This should be the last major seed starting I do until mid summer's fall planting starts.  Could do some June starts of tomatoes and squash if the first round isn't doing great.  

      Happy gardening!

Saturday, April 18, 2026

The summer edible garden

Early May garden
Saturday, April 18, 2026

A summer edible garden has the crops must of us associate with backyard vegetable gardening like peppers, eggplants, cucumbers and the fresh favorite tomato.  The summer garden is planted in May to early June.  Summer crops love warm soil and air temperatures.  Most are subtropical in origin so a frost can kill them.  Plant seeds or transplants after all danger of frost has passed.  Since summer lovers thrive in warm temperatures, they don't really grow until the soil has warmed up so starting early outdoors isn't an advantage.  You can start them indoors early and then transplant when conditions are right to get a head start.  

For the summer garden, you plant in late spring, early summer for the heat lovers and then in the middle of summer for fall and winter crops.  You will need to save space to plant edibles for fall and winter harvests in July through early September.  For more on timing and types for planting the fall and winter crops, Time to plant for fall and winter harvests!.  

 There are two categories of edible garden crops, cold crops and warm season crops.  Cold crops like lettuce, spinach, peas, radishes, carrots, cilantro, kale, chard, cabbage will bolt and become bitter as the temperatures start hitting the 80's.  For us, this used to be the end of May.  Now, we can get 80's in April.

Warm season crops love the warm days of May through September and start waning in October.  Most will continue to have some production into November or the first hard frost of the year, including tomatoes and peppers.  There are many herbs and vegetables that love the heat and humidity of summer, too.  Folks here in Kentucky say Derby Day week end is the time to plant out summer veggies.  The Kentucky Derby is always the first week end of May.  Others swear by Mother's Day.

You can start your warm season crops indoors from seed or buy plants to get a jump start on getting harvests.  There are many options nowadays at the local hardware store, local nurseries and big box stores, from hybrids to heirlooms.

For indoor seed starting, here are some pointers.  Indoor seed starting tipsIdeal soil temperatures for starting your seeds

Crops that do well with just planting seeds directly into the ground outdoors are corn, cucumbers, melons, squashes, and beans.  They have large seeds and very sturdy stems.  Outdoor seed starting tips  Sweet potatoes are started using slips that you buy or start indoors and then plant directly into the ground.

Everyone loves to brag about their first ripe tomato, but tomatoes don't appreciate cold feet so resist the urge to plant too early.  Once it warms up, they will really take off.  If you just can't resist, use a plastic covering on the ground to get the soil warm to plant early or use something like Wall o Water around each tomato to give it a coat to keep it toasty in spring.

Be sure to fertilize when planting and then monthly.  Water during dry periods.  Even moisture is important.  Letting the soil get very dry and then giving a good watering can give you split tomatoes.  For more on summer gardening, Summer garden tips

Warm Season Crops for the Summer Garden-Vegetables
Beans (fresh and shelling)  Legumes-peas for spring, beans for summer 
Celeriac  
Cultivated Dandelions,  Grow Cultivated Dandelions
Edamame (soy beans)  Growing beans
Malabar Spinach  Growing summer salads
New Zealand Spinach

Mid-May garden
Herbs are the easiest thing to grow.  They thrive on heat and don't mind dry conditions.  If you are just starting out, this is a great one to start with.

Warm Season Crops for the Summer Garden-Herbs
Bay
Bee balm
Borage
Catnip
Chives (Garden and Garlic) Add chives to your garden
Cilantro (heat tolerant variety)  Growing cilantro (coriander)
Comfrey
Dill
Egyptian walking onions  Egyptian walking onions
Horseradish
Mint
Lemon verbena
Lovage
Marjoram
Oregano
Rosemary
Sage
Salad Burnet
Summer savory
Tarragon
Thyme

Mid to late summer (July-September) is the time to plant for fall and winter harvests so be sure to have a spot for these tasty vegetables.  For more on late summer plantings for fall harvests, here is more information.  Time to plant for fall and winter harvests!

Crops Planted in Mid to Late Summer for Fall and Winter Harvests
Broccoli, Cabbage and Cauliflower (for fall harvests)
Beets, Carrots, Radishes, and Turnips (for fall and winter harvests)
Escarole, Radicchio, and Frisee (for fall and winter harvests)  Fall and winter greens
Greens (Lettuce, Kale, Mustard, Pak Choi, Spinach)
Leeks (for fall harvesting)  Everything to know about growing onions

 You can procrastinate until June and still have a productive edible summer garden.  It is not too late to start a garden in June!

I always interplant my garden with flowers.  Flowers bring pollinators and other beneficial insects into the garden.  For fruiting veggies like tomatoes, squash, peppers, cucumbers, eggplant, the more pollinators around, the more fruits you get.  If you want, you can grow edible flowers that are fun to add to salads.  Flowers that are edible

I use borage, amaranths, zinnias, marigolds, petunias, snapdragons, old fashioned Cock's Comb which is ruby red and grows 4 feet tall, red flowering Hummingbird Vine, Moonflower vine, Blue morning glory vine, heirloom sunflowers, and alyssum for annuals.  For perennials, there are spiderwort, delphiniums, hollyhocks in a variety of colors-Summer Carnival and Peach, day-lilies, irises, dahlias, fairy lilies, and gladiolas.  Five years ago I started a pollinator garden that is primarily natives like yarrow, echinacea, Black-eyed Susan bee balm, sedum, violets and many others.  Starting perennials from seed takes 2-3 years for them to really start filling out.  Now it will be survival of the fittest as flowers like bee balm and yarrow vie for space.

Summer is an exciting time in the garden.  Every day you go out, you can see things growing.  Just be sure to keep ahead of the weeds and provide even watering.  I garden in my flower beds so they are always mulched, providing protection against weeds and keeping even moisture.  Weed free, self fertilizing, till free garden beds

Sunday, April 12, 2026

What's happening in the mid-April garden

Egyptian walking onions
Sunday, April 12, 2026

I have been busy seed starting, putting transplants in the garden and pots, watering and fertilizing! I plant a combination of herbs, fruits, vegetables and flowers every year.  The flowers attract pollinators that help the fruiting plants like tomatoes and peppers to produce more as well as just looking good.

Status of our garden
We have fertilized, composted, mulched and added sulfur to all our flower/edible beds.  Wood mulch increases pH of garden soil so we add sulfur to keep it in the range that edibles grow the best in which is around 6-7.

We didn't have many weeds that needed to be pulled before we mulched the garden bed last month so I have been busy planting flowers and other transplants.  We have onions, shallots, garlic, Egyptian walking onions, chard, sorrel, arugula, carrots, celery, lettuce, cultivated dandelions, parsley and plantain that overwintered and are going strong right now.  I use the bottoms of the walking onions in cooking and the tops like chives.  The greens I use in salads and also as wilted greens.

My rosemary did not make it in the garden over the winter.  It always makes it into January, then we have a big warm up and another deep freeze and that gets it almost every year.  One of 3 tricolor sage plants survived and a couple of the green and gold a a few of the garden sages so I will have plenty of sage plants this year.  Thyme, oregano, tarragon, celery, pea shoots, garlic chives, parsley, garden chives, a few of my sage plants overwintered greens all are green and ready to use.  I can have many basil volunteers so I am waiting to see if they come up or if I need to start some from seed.  I use basil as a companion plant to tomatoes and for pesto that I freeze for year round eating.  Start a kitchen herb garden!

The bay, pepper plants, lemon, tamarillo and moringa tree I overwintered in the basement are adding leaves.  The pepper, lemon and tamarillo plants are full of flowers and baby fruits.  I moved them all outdoors a couple of weeks as the extended forecast has the night time lows staying at least in the 50's.  They should be fine unless it gets below 28F.  Our average last frost date was April 2 so we should be well out of frost/freeze danger.  

The lettuce plants I started indoors in February and transplanted into pots are looking good.  I also bought one 6 pack of Red Romaine lettuce and transplanted them into a pot, too.  Have plenty of greens for daily salads.  Growing fabulous lettuce and greens

I dug up the volunteer garlic chives and parsley and re-potted to give to the local master gardeners for their annual plant sale.  They are both winter hardy and prolific self-seeders.  My best performing self seeding edibles

April and May are fun to watch to see what volunteers will come back from last year's seed.  I will likely have marigolds, tomatoes, chives, squash, and lettuce plants pop up yet this spring as the soil warms.  Looks like I have plenty of Snow on the Mountain, zinnias, and flame cockscomb flowers coming up already.  I'll thin them out and move the extras to the steep bank by the road.  It's tough to mow so adding self-seeding flowers will make it pretty instead of just scraggly looking.  Try self-seeding veggies and flowers

I took a look in the freezer and pantry to see what we were running short on to develop my garden plan for this year.  My 2026 Decorative and Edible Garden Plan   I'll take one more look at the end of the month to fine tune how many squash, melon and cucumber seeds I'll need to plant.   A summer edible garden   The old timers around here say to wait until Mother's Day to plant out the frost tender annuals like squash, cucumbers, melons and tomatoes.  They don't grow until the soil is warm anyway so waiting doesn't delay harvest.

I think I'll also try to go to the farmers market more this year to see if there are other fruits or veggies that do well in this area to add to the garden.  We have a couple that are close by that starts up in early June.  You can find a farmers market near you through this web site.  www.localharvest.org

Saturday, April 11, 2026

Tips for successful transplanting

Seedlings "hardening" outdoors on the covered patio

Saturday, April 11, 2026

Here are some tips for giving your seedlings and transplants the best chance at surviving and thriving from the move to the garden.

 

For almost all of us that have started plants from seed indoors, we have experienced the sadness of our cute little seedling that we nurtured for weeks croaking after planting outdoors.  For myself, I can name a few reasons for the premature death of my seedlings.  

 

Here they are along with tips for successful transplanting:

 

1.  Transplanting a seedling in a season too cold or too hot for when it likes to grow.  A good example is cilantro.  Cilantro and lettuce do not like heat.  If you buy seedlings late in the season and transplant them into your full sun garden, they can quickly die or if they survive, they will immediately bolt into a flower stalk with no harvestable leaves.  Cilantro and lettuce should be planted in early spring or fall when temperatures are cool.  So, first tip, only plant in the season that your veggie likes to grow.  Look at the seed packet or plant tag for growing information.

 

2.  Transplanting near other plants that put out toxins in their roots.  Some trees like walnut and hickory and some plants like sunflowers put out exudes in their roots that are toxic to other plants.  Tree roots just by themselves can rob the vegetation near the tree of moisture and nutrients they need to thrive.  If your space is limited to those near trees, you can use raised beds with protected bottoms to keep tree roots from infiltrating the veggie's soil.

 

3.  Transplanting into an area of the garden that the plant does not get what it needs to thrive.  For example, fruiting vegetables like tomatoes need lots of direct sunlight to get big and bushy to support the energy needed to produce fruits.  Planting where they will only get a few hours of sunlight will result in weak plants that will struggle to produce fruits.  Another example is planting cool temperature loving plants in the hottest part of the garden.  Think southern exposure with no shade.  Crops like lettuce do enjoy 6-8 hours of full sun but produce longer with sweeter leaves if given afternoon shade.  If you grow in pots, you can have the pots with southern exposure until it warms up and then move to the east or north where it will be cooler in the afternoons.

 

4.  Transplanting too soon.  It is best to wait until your seedlings have at least their second set of leaves.  This signals that the seedlings root system is robust enough to support on-going growth.  

 

5.  Transplanting seedlings with weak stalks.  If you handle seedlings by their stalk, you can crush the stalk which will kill the seedling.  Handle the seedling by its leaves if the stalk is thin.  If you transplant a seedling that has a weak stalk on a windy day or week, the wind can blow the seedling stalk in half, killing the seedling.  

 

6.  You'll have the best luck "hardening" the seedling to outdoor conditions gradually before planting in its permanent spot.  Take your seedlings outdoors when it is warm, gradually increasing the exposure to the sun and wind.  Like us, plants need to build up protection from the rays of the sun.  Exposure to wind causes the seedling to strengthen its stem.  You can gently brush your seedlings indoors daily or put a small fan to blow over your seedlings to mimic the outdoor wind.  Give them a week or two, gradually increasing exposure to sun and wind in a protected area before moving out into the garden.

 

7.  Transplanting on a full sun day.  Even after hardening, the transplanting process is hard on a seedling.  I look for cool, shady days to transplant to give the plant some time to adjust before getting hit with the full power of all day sunshine.

 

8.  Breaking the roots of the seedling as you are removing the plant from their growing pot to put them in the ground.  Be as careful as you can to remove the entire root ball of the seedling.  You can slide a knife around the inside of the pot/cell to make the plant easier to remove.  Their root system isn't very robust when small. 

 

9.  Transplanting into the wrong type of soil for the plant.  For example, if you are growing in a pot, you should use potting soil not dirt.  Or if growing blueberry bushes, they need acidic soil not regular garden soil or potting soil to flower and fruit.

 

10.  Not giving the transplant the water and nutrients it needs when you plant them.  I like to give the seedlings a good watering before I transplant them.  At transplant time, I add char, worm castings and a balanced organic fertilizer or starter fertilizer and mix into the soil of the planting hole before adding the seedling.  After planting, I water again and keep an eye on them daily for the first few days to make sure they are getting the moisture they need.  If a nice, slow rain comes the day after planting, this is the optimum for the transplant!

 

For more gardening and transplanting information, see these blogs:

Spring edible garden

A summer edible garden

"Hardening off" seedlings

Sunday, April 5, 2026

What to plant in the April garden

Seedlings
Sunday, April 5, 2026

April is a beautiful time of year with the leaves coming on, the grass turning green, the first flowers blooming and lots of plants poking their heads out of the ground.  There are many veggie and fruit seeds and transplants that can be put in the edible garden.  It is still too chilly for most of the summer lovers until the end of the month.  Big box stores, hardware stores, local nurseries, flea markets and farmers markets all have plants right now.  This makes it easy to get your garden going in the spring.  You can find many heirloom fruits and veggies transplants and seeds nowadays.  For the unusual plants, buying on-line from seed companies is the way to go.

In preparation for spring planting, I completed everything on my spring checklist-cleaning up debris, composting, fertilizing, adding sulfur and mulching for my garden beds to be ready for planting.  Spring garden checklist

I have already started salad greens and snow peas in pots and am harvesting for fresh spring salads.  I also planted marigolds, Sweet William, flame cockscomb in the garden bed and petunias in my pots. 

I have my summer loving veggies and fruit starts hardening off on the patio: eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, husk cherries, huckleberries, and some summer greens.   I always look at the extended forecast to make sure we are not getting an unusual cold snap coming before putting them into their permanent pot or garden bed spot.  Check your seed packet for the best time to sow the seeds.  I like starting seeds in pots outdoors this time of year so they are already acclimated to the temperatures and strength of the sun.

Spring and summer loving transplants are in your neighborhood stores that you can pick up now.  I almost always buy some lettuce and spinach transplants to get more plants to harvest from this time of year.  This year, I had several lettuce and chard that overwintered and different varieties that I grew from seed so I only bought one 6 pack of red romaine lettuce.  Veggie plants have arrived in stores!

Even though you will see summer lovers like basil, tomatoes, peppers and eggplant plants in the store, it is still quite chilly for them in April.  They do much better in the warmer temperatures that come in May. 

Starting seeds indoors is a great option too.  What I started indoors this week  You can grow unusual varieties you may not find in stores.  Being inside lets you keep a very close eye on how they are doing, too.  You just need to make sure they are acclimated for the outdoors before transplanting.  "Hardening off" seedlings

Here is a list of plants and seeds you can put in the April garden: 
April-transplants or seeds into the garden or pot Zone 6/7
Amaranth
Asparagus  All about asparagus
Bee balm (monarda)
Brussels sprouts  Growing Brussel sprouts
Catnip
Celeriac
Dill  
Endive
Horseradish
Leeks
Lemon balm
Lovage
Mustard  Mustard greens
Radicchio
Sage
Strawberries  Back yard strawberries
Thyme
Valerian
Any of the above can also be started indoors and then transplanted outdoors into their permanent garden  spot or pot.

April-start directly in the garden or pot
These edibles do best when started directly in their permanent spot.  Almost all root vegetable do best being directly sown (onions and leeks can be started from seed then transplanted to their permanent spot).  
Beans (snap-bush & pole) at end of April  Growing beans
Corn at end of April  Growing corn
Fruit bushes (bare root or potted)  Fruit for small spaces and pots

April-start indoors for transplanting in early May
Lemon verbena
Summer and winter squash  Everything you need to know to grow squash
Sweet potatoes  Growing sweet potatoes

For tips on starting your seeds in the garden:  Outdoor seed starting tips  I also like to put a pot on our covered deck and start seeds there.  Once they are to a good size, I transplant them into their permanent pot or into the garden bed.  Vegetables you can grow in pots