Sunday, October 29, 2023

Hard freeze is coming!

Fall sunrise
Sunday, October 29, 2023

When a hard freeze is in the forecast, it is time to pick the last of the tomatoes, peppers and eggplants and clean the plants from the garden, bring in the tropicals for the winter and give your cold crops a nice warm"coat" to protect them all winter!

You can compost any plant debris that was disease free, but dispose af any diseased plants in the garbage.  Only high sustained temperatures will destroy the spores and it is not worth the risk of spreading disease into next year’s garden through your homemade compost.  Composting is possible in small spaces or even indoors

Peppers will do well indoors if put in a sunny area.  They will continue to flower and fruit for weeks.  Their flowers and red fruits are pretty, too.  Come spring, they will have a one to two month head start on the season.

This is the time of year to put a coat over your potted plants left outdoors planted with cold loving crops.  The best place to locate your plants and greenhouse is close to a wall and on the south side of the house in full sun.  Putting the greenhouse against the house or other structure will help keep the temperatures warmer for your plants.  Extend the season with protection for plants

I will put my mini portable greenhouse covers over my pots and Earthoxes that contain kale, celery, French dandelion, lettuce, sorrel, sprouting broccoli, parsley, chard and arugula.  I also put inside the greenhouse along the outside edge, one gallon jugs filled with water and spray painted black.  These will help moderate the temperature inside the greenhouse.  Spray painting the jugs protects the plastic from sun degradation.
Mini portable greenhouse
I added a larger portable greenhouse for the other self-watering pots I have a few winters ago. It has worked very well and allows me to have more winter greens and start greens, carrots, broccoli and cabbage in the early spring.  I have a 6' x 8' walk in, portable greenhouse we just got and assembled to be able to give the native flowers I have transplanted a boost for establishing their roots over the winter and to get an earlier start on tomato plants.  I went with clear plastic to maximize the rays that get to the plants.  
Larger portable greenhouse
The biggest risk with a greenhouse?  Overheating!  The sun’s rays are quite hot on a cloudless day.  I open the vent on my greenhouses when it is sunny and in the 30’s.  I will unzip the front door flap when it gets into the 40’s.   In the 50’s, the cold crops really don’t need any protection.  

The crops that do well in early spring are the ones that do well over the winter in a greenhouse.  Cold crops I like to grow under cover are arugula, broccoli, cabbage, celery, chard, cilantro, corn salad, kale, lettuce, mustard greens, parsley, peas, sorrel, spinach, cultivated dandelions.  Cold season crops for your edible garden

Saturday, October 28, 2023

Reflections on the 2023 edible garden and plans for 2024

Saturday, October 28, 2023

October is the ideal time to think back over the spring and summer gardening season and capture what went well, what didn't and what you want to do for your garden next year while the garden season is fresh in my mind.  I like to capture what varieties did well, what I planted too much or too little of, including the specific names before I forget.  I am forever trying to make the garden more productive and enjoyable.  I also like to make notes of what I want to learn more about over the winter.   

Here are my reflections on this year's garden............

Overall
In general, the garden did well in the spring, was very slow to start producing summer veggies, and my fall seed starting was not stellar.  We actually had a real spring for the third year in a row.  Usually, the season changes from winter to summer like a flick of a switch.  This year, we had a crazy warm up at the end of winter, then back to chilly temperatures and a slow increase back to normal temperatures in June.  The cool temperatures are great for lettuces and snow peas.

This year, I was again gardening exclusively in the back ornamental beds because we are still working on the addition to our house.  I expanded from just the garden that is mostly shaded by a hickory tree to also gardening in the bed by the new basement retaining wall.  I found out last year that hickory trees are like walnut trees and likely the reason that the summer crops didn't do well in the garden bed next to it.  

I put the sun loving tomatoes and basil in the basement bed since it gets more sun, the beans, cucumber, peppers, and eggplant in pots around the bed by the hickory tree, as far into the sun as possible.  One Trombetta squash went in the hickory tree bed and my other three squash vines went in the potato boxes.  

There were high points and not so great turn outs for the season.  Just your typical edible garden season!  

The good
  The lettuce, cultivated dandelions, bay laurel, sorrel, Egyptian walking onions, basil, celery, Trombetta squash, garlic chives, beans, chard and container tomatoes did well.  Greens were the standouts in the spring and Red Malabar spinach, Trombetta squash, and tomatoes planted upside down in 5 gallon buckets in the summer garden.  

I have been growing Red Malabar, Chinese Multicolor Spinach amaranth, Giant Leaf sweet mustard, Cock's Comb, Heavenly Blue morning glory and African Nunum basil the past few years.  They grow well in my garden and self-seed.  I just look for volunteers coming up and transplant them to their summer spot.  Next year, I need to do more thinning of all these volunteers, except the Chinese Multicolor Spinach, as I had many more than I needed this year.

I had one Trombetta summer squash planted in the garden bed and that was plenty for fresh eating plus having many winter squash in the cellar.  Its vines went both directions 20 feet.  It requires a lot of space.  The vines were disease free again this season.  I'll continue to grow them for their versatility, productivity and disease resistance.   

My raspberry plant did well.  It's an ever bearer and it gave berries through summer and fall.

I had lots of self-seeded Cock's Comb plants, Hummingbird vine and Heavenly Blue morning glory vines to transplant around the garden.  There were several zinnias that also sprouted here and there.  I expect I will have many Cactus zinnia volunteers next year from this year's plantings that I started from seed.  The Cactus zinnias were all different colors and very large flowers.  Zinnias are native to the Southwest US and do well in Midwest gardens.  

The okay
I grew pole beans and a bush cucumber again in pots this year.  The beans were slow to produce and were not giving alot of bean pods until I fertilized the pots.  I had always read that beans didn't need to be fertilized because the roots fix the nitrogen the vines need.  Since I was growing in pots, they needed the additional help from fertilizer to get the plants the nutrition to grow and produce pods.

I went with Blauhilde purple pole snap beans that are resistant to fungal disease and 1500 Year Old pole beans that can be eaten fresh or kept as dried beans.  I also grew an early Japanese winged bean that has beautiful blue flowers.  It takes until August for winged beans to start producing pods.  I didn't see any disease during the season on any of the pole beans.  I had enough fresh pods to put up a few quarts of frozen beans.  

I also grew Christmas Speckles lima beans because the beans are such a pretty white and red.  I got 2 flushes of dried beans from Christmas Speckles.  The second flush is just beginning to dry on the vine.  As the pods turn brown, I pick and shell them.  I leave them to dry on the counter for a few weeks before putting away in sealed quart jars.  For dried beans, you have to plant many vines to get a decent harvest!

I had a heck of a time getting the cucumber seeds to sprout and grow.  It took 3 times to get a vine going.  I did not get many fruits even though I fertilized monthly and kept it well watered.  I did get enough for the pickles I needed to take us to next summer.  There are 2 cucumbers right now that are harvestable that can make another jar of pickles.  I'll pick them before our forecasted hard freeze Monday night. 

I will grow my beans, cucumbers and okra next year in the ground as they do better in the garden bed than in pots. 
 
I grew Anaheim peppers, sweet peppers, and eggplant in pots as well.  The peppers were slow to get going but filled with fruits later in summer.  I got 2 full flushes of peppers on each plant.  The eggplants were not productive this year.  I let the self-seeded morning glory vines grow in the same pot as the eggplants.  The morning glories are just too hungry for the eggplant to thrive.  Next year, I will pull all the morning glory volunteers from the pots and just keep petunias as the eggplant's pretty companion plant.  Both peppers and eggplants usually do very well in pots.  Right now, both the eggplant and pepper plants are loaded with fruits.  I will cover them on Monday to try to protect them from the hard freeze they are calling for to give them time to ripen.  May be a safer bet to just bring in the garage.

I interplanted snow peas, Oregon Sugar Pod II, Little Purple Snowpea, Avalanche, in the pots with the eggplant and peppers in late spring.  They all did okay.  I think they had the same issue as the pole beans; I need to fertilize the pots when I plant the seeds and then again about a month after they sprout.

The tomatoes that were planted in the basement flower bed did okay.  I was given 10 of the 14 plants.  4 died out in August.  I still have 5 producing.  Only 2 are full of tomatoes.  The others have just a few.  The tomato plants grown upside down in 5 gallon buckets did pretty well.  We planted Brandywine, Black Prince and salad tomatoes in the 5 gallon buckets.  They were all indeterminate.  What we learned is to keep the vines trimmed back to about 5 feet in length and fertilize often.  If left to continue to grow, the center of the vines die out.  My husband set up a timer for watering a short period of time, twice a day and that worked well  

I was able to put many quarts in the freezer from the combination of those planted in the garden bed and the upside down tomato set up.  We will do both again next year. 

The bad
I tried a new spinach, Galilee, that was supposed to be heat tolerant.  Unfortunately, Galilee spinach bolted quickly and had few harvestable leaves.  I will not try it again as it was a relatively cool spring so spinach should have done well.

Trombetta, Mashed Potato, and Warsaw spaghetti squash in the potato boxes did not do well.  Likely was disease spread by the squash bugs.  I got only 2 fruits off the spaghetti squash and the Trombetta.  Did not get a single fruit off the Mashed Potato squash vine.  I will give them another try next season.  Typically, I'll try something twice and if they don't do well twice, I move to another variety. 

I didn't do a good job of keeping the garden deer and rabbit deterrents refreshed in my iris bed over the spring and early fall so they kept getting ate by critters.  When they get eaten to the ground, it seems I do not have nearly as many flowering the next year.  I went ahead and fertilized this fall and will fertilize in the spring to help compensate for being ate to the ground, I hope!

My fig tree and my rosemary made it through the winter but was killed after a late winter warm up followed by a spring frigid spell.  My garden chives did not come back up even though my garlic chives thrived.  My 4 year old Cayenne pepper plant died in late summer; not sure why.

The sprouting broccoli volunteers came back again this year.  It grows robustly and the greens taste great in salads through all 4 seasons.  The only drawback to it is the worms that come starting in July.  I should cut them off at the first of July and start them again in the fall to miss the worms, but I don't the heart to so the leaves gets many holes in them in late summer.  Radish plants are supposed to repel cabbage moths so I'll try those next year with the volunteer sprouting broccoli.

I didn't have the best luck in starting lettuce and spinach in pots this summer.  I have several small lettuce plants sprouted from fall planting.  They are about 4" tall right now.  Hopefully, they will get up close to full size this month so we will have lettuce to harvest through the winter.  

Winter learning 
I have bought a 6' x 8' walk in, portable greenhouse.  We assembled it today.  I am going to move my potted peppers and eggplants into it tomorrow as they are calling for a hard freeze Monday night.  I hope that extends the harvest by a couple of months.  Both got a late start this summer and I need more sweet peppers to freeze and chili peppers to make chili powder for the winter.  

I may also try a cold frame this winter.  I'd sow lettuce and spinach seeds in it in January to get a jump on spring harvests.

Next year's garden
We are working on getting our garden beds in.  We are putting our mixed edible and ornamental garden bed back on the south and west sides of the house which gets much better sun and is well away from any hickory trees!  We saved the garden topsoil so we could put the organic rich soil back so we are not starting from zero.  I have alot of compost that I have made to to spread on the beds before mulching this fall.  Fingers crossed!

Here is my garden plan for next year:
Blauhilde pole snap beans, 1500 Year Old bean vine and Christmas speckles lima beans around one trellis
Urizun Japanese winged bean (either in a pot or the garden bed)
Red Burgundy okra (in the garden bed)
6 tomato plants-large paste (Italian Red Pear), slicers(Cherokee Purple and an orange/yellow), a small fruit (Chocolate Pear), a storage tomato (Yellow Keeper or other) and an early variety like Rubee Dawn
2 eggplant-Casper or Rotanda Bianca, Rosa, Shiromaru, or Amadeo (in pot)
1 bush cucumber (in garden bed)
1 summer squash-Trombetta since it is resistant to vine borer, disease and squash bugs
2 winter squash-Warsaw Spaghetti and Mashed Potato
Perennial onions-potato onion type and sweet Egyptian Walking onion variety
Potatoes in the potato boxes
Snow peas in pots with peppers and eggplants
Dragon Tail radish in pot by sprouting broccoli
Hilton Chinese cabbage (2 plants)
New Zealand and Malabar spinach in pot (1 each)
Lettuce (Royal Oakleaf, Grand Rapids, Butter King, Bronze Beauty, Celtic, Forellenschluss, Giant Blue Feather, Yedikule, Red Sails) and spinach in pots
Greens that stay sweet in summer-Orach, Amaranth, Chard-Perpetual Spinach and Fordhook, Chinese Multicolor Spinach, Purple Stardust Iceplant, Komatsuna, Giant Leaf mustard
Herbs-Dill, Basil (Nunum, Genovese, Cardinal), Cilantro, Lion's Ear, Rosemary, Parsley, Sage, Chervil, Pink Celery
Sweet and hot peppers-variety to make chili powder, jalapeƱo, and 2 sweet pepper plants
No watermelon, beets, heading cabbage or broccoli
Cantaloupe-Tigger melon
Flowers-zinnias, alyssum, marigolds, Cock's Comb, peach hollyhocks, Pride of Madeira, blue morning glory, Love Lies Bleeding, Moonflower

I will also need to thin my celery, Red Malabar spinach and Giant mustard plants out as they come up next year.

I have to be stern with myself about what I will not plant.  In the past 3 years, I planted much less than usual and had plenty for fresh eating and preserving.  My eyes are always bigger than my space or need!

Sunday, October 22, 2023

Save seeds!

Seeds from heirloom tomato bought in store
Sunday, October 22, 2023

Saving seeds has been the foundation of farming since it began thousands of years ago.  Seed saving is easy and saves you money.  Always save the seed from the best vegetable you grew! Or the tastiest you buy at the farmers market or store.  

Pick the fruit or plant that has the characteristics you want to grow again.  The one that was the biggest or had the best taste or produced the most or produced the longest or gave you harvests the earliest or was the most drought or pest resistant.  Whatever characteristic that you want to have in your garden next year is the plant's seeds you want to save from this year. 
Lettuce flower buds
One caveat, you cannot get true to parent plants from hybrids.  If they grow, they will often be totally different than the parent or could get weaker with each generation.  You need “open pollinated” or heirloom vegetables for the seed to for sure produce a baby like the parent.  You can always save seed from hybrids to try as an experiment, but don't be surprised if it is very different from the parent plant.
What do the terms GMO, natural, heirloom, organic, hybrid really mean?

It doesn't cost a thing to save seeds from store bought veggies or fruits you like and you can end up with some great plants for your garden!  To be sure that the seeds you save will come back true to the parent, heirloom is a sure bet.  One of my favorite paste tomatoes is one I saved the seed from a tomato bought from the store.
For garlic, you save the best, biggest cloves.  You divide up the garlic head into individual cloves and plant them in the fall when it cools off.  Typically, sometime in October or November.  Most store bought garlic has been treated to prevent them from sprouting so you may or may not have luck using the ones from the grocery store.  Organic garlic is not treated.  Your farmers market is also a great place to get garlic well suited for your area.  October is prime time to plant garlic
In our garden, seeds can be saved from tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, lettuce, broccoli, cilantro, dill, celery, borage, salad burnet, garlic, okra, Egyptian walking onions (bulblets), basil.  I have many zinnia, amaranth, chervil, garlic chives, marigold and basil "volunteers" in the garden every year from seeds dropped by the plant last fall.
Try self-seeding veggies and flowers

Do not save seeds from any diseased plant as the disease can be in the seed itself and passed to the new plant.  You wouldn't want to save seed from a plant that is susceptible to disease any way.  You want to save seeds from plants that thrive in your garden conditions. 

Lettuce flower seeds
For peppers, squash and tomatoes, just scoop out the seeds, lay them on a paper towel on a plate and let them dry completely.  Some suggest for tomato seed to put them in water and let them ferment a bit.  The ones that sink are the ones you want to keep for planting, not the ones that float.  After drying, I put in plastic baggies and keep in the frig to prolong seed life.  Don't forget to label the variety and date saved.
Tomatoes 101, everything you need to know to grow ...
Growing zucchini and summer squash
Warm joys of winter squash

I have finally found/grown two kinds of sweet peppers that produce well.  I'll keep saving the seed and growing them out.  They are now a mainstay for my garden.  Peppers are for every taste and garden

Many greens, like chard, parsley, lettuce, broccoli, will shoot a large stalk up then flower.  This is called "bolting."  The easiest thing to do is to let the seeds form, cut the stalk, then put the stalks with seed heads attached into a paper bag.  Let them dry thoroughly, then shake the seeds out.  Some may require that you roll the seed heads between your fingers to free the seed.  

You can actually re-sow seeds from cool season crops like lettuce, cilantro, parsley, chard, chives and get a second fall/winter harvest!  I re-sow seeding about every other week starting the first of September.  In about two weeks, you will have sprouting greens.  When they have grown a bit more, I will separate and transplant into pots and the garden.  I like starting seeds in long narrow pots what are self-watering to be able to move easily to the best growing conditions.  Can also move under the portable greenhouse when it gets cold.
Ideal soil temperatures for starting your seeds
Outdoor seed starting tips
I put my dried seeds in labelled ziplock bags and store them in the crisper, include the seed type, descriptor and date.  A picture of the plant can be helpful to remember the plant the seed belongs to.  Fun gift to give, too.  The seeds last for years this way!

Saturday, October 21, 2023

11 herbs you should stop buying and start growing

Fall basil
Saturday, October 21, 2023

Herbs are expensive in the store, easy to grow and most are perennials.  If you are looking to amp up your cooking and save some money for little time, grow herbs.  An added bonus?  Herbs are fragrant so they repel deer and pollinators love them.  Spring, summer or fall are good times to plant any perennial, whether it is flowers, shrubs, trees, veggies or herbs.
These are the herbs I grow in the garden:
Chives.  A perennial that can be grown in a pot, indoors, outdoors or in the ground.  There are 2 types of chives, common chives and garlic chives.  Both are easy to grow and have pretty flowers.  Common chives has purple flowers and garlic chives have white flowers.  Garlic chives do self seed easily so after flowering, remove the seed heads.
Egyptian walking onions. A perennial that can be grown in a pot or in the ground.  Technically, this plant is probably a vegetable but can also be used as an herb.  There are two varieties I am aware of one, one has the flavor of a white onion, the other of sweet onions.  You can use the bulb for cooking just like you would with a regular onion and the tops for fresh chives.  They propagate underground and also by their bulbets that form on top of their stalks in summer.  They are super hardy, heat and cold don't bother them a bit.
Oregano. A perennial that can be grown in a pot or in the ground.  I love the smell and the bees love the flowers.  A Mediterranean herb thrives on neglect. 
   Parsley.  A biennial that can be grown in a pot or in the ground.  Biennials are leafy the first year, then flower and die the second year.  They produce many seeds so you typically get volunteers coming back year after year.  Very cold hardy as well.  
Thyme.  A perennial that can be grown in a pot or in the ground.  I love the smell and the bees love the tiny flowers.  A Mediterranean herb thrives on neglect.  I grow the creeping thyme that I put all the way around my ornamental edible garden bed to deter deer.
Lemon balm.  A perennial that can be grown in a pot indoors or outdoors or in the ground.  A happy self-seeder in the mint family.  Can grow into a really large clump.  Grow in a pot and remove the seed heads after flowering to prevent spreading or just give the volunteers to friends.  Bees love the flowers.  Great lemony scent.  Can be used as a lemon substitute in recipes and makes a nice tea from dried leaves.
Mint.  A perennial that can be grown in a pot indoors or outdoors or in the ground.  There are many different kinds of mint-chocolate, orange, peppermint, spearmint, lemon, etc.  Pick a taste you want to add to your cooking.  Mint can be very invasive, spreading vigorously underground.  I grow mine in a pot.  Very hardy. 
Tarragon.  A perennial that can be grown in a pot indoors or outdoors or in the ground.  It spreads underground but not too much so in my garden.  Love adding to salads, on fish or soups, and as a substitute for cilantro in salsa.  It has an anise flavor.  I find it refreshing.
Basil.  An annual that can be grown in a pot indoors or outdoors or in the ground.  It will turn black with the first frost of the year.  Smells great and the bees love the flowers.  Very easy to start from cuttings.  Can put in a pot outdoors and bring in for the winter to have fresh basil year round.
Sage.  A perennial that can be grown in a pot or in the ground.  I love the smell and the bees love the tiny flowers.  Another Mediterranean herb thrives on neglect.  It is also in the mint family but is not invasive. 
Rosemary.  A tender perennial that can be grown in a pot indoors or outdoors or in the ground.  I have tried varieties in my Midwest garden that was supposed to be hardy to Zone 5.  They do make it to early winter and when we get that warm spell that we always do in late winter and then another blast of frigid air, the plant dies.  Best reco I have is to keep it in a pot and then bring it inside the garage when it gets down in the low 20's until it starts warming back up.  For my Zone 7, this would be from early January until early March.  You could also keep it under a portable greenhouse outdoors through the winter.

From these herbs you can make your own Herbes de Provence and Poultry Seasoning.  I put my herb mix on everything!

I cut my herb plants back by about a third a couple times through the growing season, put them loosely in paper bags and let them dry in a warm closet.  Once dried, I remove the leaves and store in ziplock bags or quart jars in a dark place.  I use these as refills for my spice jars and to mix my own herb seasonings.  Be sure to label them as it is hard to tell one dry leave from another!

My "Herbes de Provence" recipe:
Thyme, Marjoram/Oregano, Rosemary, Basil, Tarragon, Sage
I just mix together whatever herbs I have on hand.  If you love mint, add it.  If you like a hint of lemon, add lemon balm.

My Poultry Seasoning recipe:
3 Tbl sage
1 Tbl parsley
1 Tbl thyme
1 Tbl marjoram or oregano

Sunday, October 15, 2023

My 5 favorite winter garden edibles

4 season onions

 Sunday, October 15, 2023

The winter garden can provide food all the way to spring.  There are five strategies to having outdoor edibles all winter long.  One is to plant early enough to be at full size by first of November.  The second is to leverage protection like row covers, portable greenhouses, and cold frames.  The third is to choose varieties that are winter hardy.  These are my 5 favorite winter edibles.

If you don't have transplants ready to go, many local nurseries and mail order nurseries have plants that you can plop right in the ground.  Both will carry those that are cold hardy.  Look for descriptions that show they are as cold hardy as you can get to last all winter.  

Just as info, ornamental cabbage and kale are not only stunning to look at, they are also edible. 

Make sure to add a scoop of finished compost to planting holes and organic fertilizer to add nutrients to soil that may be depleted after the summer harvest.  Espoma is readily available at most big box and hardware stores.  For greens type veggies, the general vegetable garden fertilizer is a good choice.

Use row cover or a portable greenhouse to extend the harvest all the way to spring.

Ready for harvest in: 6 to 7 weeks
Can survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Transplant seedlings about 6 weeks before first frost. Harvest the leaves around the outside of the plant; always leaving 5 leaves on each plant.  This will let you harvest for weeks from the same plants.  Other hardy greens include miner's lettuce, corn salad, sorrel, arugula, salad burnet.
Ready for harvest in: 6 to 12 weeks for leaf lettuce; 11 to 13 weeks for head lettuce
Can survive frost: Yes (depending on variety-try Winter Density, Rouge diver, No Name Red Leaf, Arctic King, Continuity, Salad Bowl, Mottistone to name a few.  
Fall planting notes: Keep transplants indoors until soil cools. Lettuce seeds won't germinate in hot soil temperatures, above 75-80F.  You can also broadcast seeds in cool soil every two weeks for a continuous harvest. I like starting my seeds in a pot in a cool area and then transplant into the garden.  Harvest in early morning for best taste and structure.  
Ready for harvest in: 8 to 9 weeks
Can survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Plant seedlings deep, leaving 1 to 3 leaves above soil. Heads grow fast. Harvest before flowering begins. May produce secondary heads. Harvest edible leaves, too — they are even more nutritious than the buds.  I love the leaves in salads.
Ready for harvest in: Next spring for mature onions, 6 weeks for green onions
Survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Onions, leeks and shallots like loose, rich soil.  Be sure to plant varieties for the length of daylight your zone has in the summer.  It is the number of daylight hours that stimulates the onion to form bulbs.  In our lower Midwest garden, we need intermediate onion types.  Don't be tempted to grow Vidalias in Minnesota; they just won't make bulbs.
5-Overwintering Fava Beans and Peas  Grow a European favorite-the fava or broad bean
Ready for harvest in: 4 weeks-Next spring
Survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Inoculate the seeds to get the nitrogen nodules that support more vigorous growth and nitrogen in the soil.  There are snow peas that are ready to harvest in just 30 days.

Now, don't forget you can harvest many Mediterranean herbs all winter as they are perennials.  Start a kitchen herb garden! 

How Low Can You Go?
Depending on where you live, you may be able to get a decent vegetable harvest even through winter with protection.  Many folks grow edibles through the winter in Zone 3 with some type of cover.  Several varieties will grow well into the snowy months, and a good frost sweetens many by forcing the plants to make more frost-protecting sugars.

Can Survive Hard Freeze with No Protection/Cover
• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Cabbage, regular
• Carrots
• Chard
• Collards
• Fava beans
• Kale
• Kohlrabi
• Lettuce (depending on variety-look for winter hardy) 
• Onions, leeks, and shallots
• Overwintering peas
• Parsley
• Radishes
• Spinach
• Turnips
• Winter hardy and perennial greens  Perennial veggies in the Midwest garden

Harvest Longer
In fall, promote faster growth by packing plants a bit more tightly than you might normally do. You can extend your growing season by adding thick layers of mulch around plants, or by using season-extending techniques such as row covers. When nights get chilly, protect plants by covering them with a cloth or blanket, portable greenhouse or cold frame.  Extend the season with protection for plants

Saturday, October 14, 2023

Frost checklist for the edible garden

 


Saturday, October 14, 2023

With frost in the air, summer loving veggies are coming to the end of their season.  Veggies like tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini, cucumber, basil, and peppers do not like cold weather.  It is time to harvest the last of the summer veggies and get the cold crops the protection they need to continue producing through fall and winter.

In our garden, tomatoes, peppers, green beans, summer squash, eggplant, husk cherries, goji berries, onions, and shallots are still producing.   They can continue to produce until the first hard freeze.  Continue to pick daily.  You can cover your plants with a lightweight row cover if you are going to have just a short spell of frosty nights. 

Basil is still doing great, but turns black when bitten with the first frost.  Harvest all remaining basil when they call for low temperatures of 36 or below to be on the safe side.  I make lots of pesto and freeze.  Makes for a super quick and tasty meal any time.  Basil basics-harvesting, preserving, growing basil

Before the first freeze, I will take all the fruits off the eggplant, tomato, pepper, green bean, husk cherry and squash plants.  I may take in a couple of the potted pepper and eggplants if there are quite a few baby fruits on them to harvest those as well. 

I'll freeze the extra husk cherries, goji berries, tomatoes and peppers.  Eggplant doesn't freeze well so I'll eat those fresh or make baba ghanoush dip to freeze.  Summer squash, I'll eat as many fresh as possible, the rest I'll make into zoodles and freeze to use in place of spaghetti.  How to use all your zucchini-really

I'll take all of last year's frozen tomatoes and make into sauce for the winter.  I like waiting until it is cooler before canning!  This year, I have a few jars of sauce left from last year and not many leftover frozen quarts of sliced tomatoes so I'll only be canning a few jars this season.   Preserving the tomato harvest

Of course, you can try the yummy fried green tomatoes too!  A late fall tradition-fried green tomatoes!

Now is also a great time to divide any perennials you have, whether they be herbs, edibles or ornamentals.  This will give them all fall and winter to put down strong roots.  Perennial greens are always the first up in the spring.  Midwest Perennial Vegetable Garden

Now is the time to order your mini greenhouse to extend the season.  I'll put mine out over the greens in my Earthboxes to keep the lettuce and greens going all winter when they are calling for a freeze.  Preparing for a hard freeze

Portable greenhouse for winter greens