Saturday, January 29, 2022

Basic edible gardening terms

During the world wars, the government developed many gardening pamphlets

Saturday, January 29, 2022

Wondering what all those terms mean that you read about in gardening magazines, blogs and books?  Here a few of the more common terms used and what they mean.

Annual, Biennial, Perennial-Refers to how long a plant lives.  Annuals have a life cycle of one year.  They grow, flower, set seed all in the first year, and when they die, they do not return next year.  A biennial grows one year, flowers and sets seeds the next year, completing its life cycle.  An example of a biennial are carrots.  If left in the ground, they will have flowers that look like Queen Ann's Lace the following spring.  A perennial is one that comes back year after year, like asparagus.  The one watch out is to make sure that the plant is a perennial for your "hardiness" zone.  

Bare root plants-When plants are shipped from the nursery with no soil attached to their roots.  You can typically get bare root plants for much less than those shipped in soil.  I have had great success with bare root plants.  Just be sure to get them into soil as soon as they arrive.  Follow the instructions that come with them to ensure success.  

Bolt, Bolting-The point at which a vegetable sends up its flower stalk for propagation.  Lettuce and cilantro are good examples of crops that send up a tall stalk when the weather warms. If left, the stalk will produce flowers and then seeds.  You can save the seeds to resow or leave and they will self sow.  

Cole or cold crop plants-Veggies that thrive in cool or cold temperatures, like broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, spinach, and mustards.  You would use these for your spring, fall and for the most cold hardy, your winter edible garden.

Companion planting-One plant placed next to another can either help or hinder the growth and production of its neighbor.  Companion planting refers to planting neighbors that assist in the growth and health of the neighboring plant.  The most famous companion planting is the "three sisters".  The corn provides the trellis for the beans.  The beans provide nitrogen for the squash and corn.  The squash vine shades the surrounding soil to keep moisture in the soil and shade out competing weeds.  Companion plants can assist in different ways, from providing shade, nutrition or deterring pests and weeds. 

Compost-"Black gold".  Organic matter (vegetable scraps, leaves, weeds, sawdust, etc.) that is decomposed by microbes.  Good finished compost will smell earthy and is great to add to the garden bed to improve soil texture. 

Container Garden-When fruits, vegetables and flowers are grown in pots.  Nowadays there are dwarf varieties of just about any fruit or vegetable that has been developed to do well in pots.  Don't let lack of yard space deter you from growing your own food!  

Cover crop-A crop that is planted just to keep the bare soil covered to prevent erosion and loss of fertility.  Many cover crops are also grown to improve the fertility and tilth of the soil.

Crop rotation-From one year to the next, you should put your veggie plants into a different area of the garden.  This helps break pest and disease cycles.  Pests and disease organisms are typically adapted to a specific type of crop and they stay over the winter in the soil and garden debris.  By moving your tomatoes from one area to another, it makes it harder for the pests and diseases to survive into the season.  You can be smart about how you rotate your crops so that last year's crop actually helps this year's crop by adding needed fertility and loosening the soil.

Days to Maturity/Days to Harvest-Reported on the seed packet.  The number of days from when a seed is planted until it produces a harvest.  This will vary based on how warm it is and the hours of daylight.  Typically, they are giving the time it takes when planted early in the season.  Seeds planted when warmer will likely produce sooner than what is on the seed packet.  

Deadheading-Removing spent flowers.  Removing flowers that are past their prime will signal to the plant to produce more flowers.  The same goes for fruits in vegetable plants; keeping them picked will signal to the plant to make more.  

Direct seeding-This is when you start the seed in the plant's final location.  You can direct seed into a pot or the garden bed.  Some plants do not like to be transplanted like carrots and radishes.  For best growth, you would direct seed these type of crops.

Dormancy-When the plant stops growing is called dormancy.  It's kind of like when the bears go into hibernation.  Everything slows down, the plant is still living.  Dormancy can be caused by high heat, drought, reduced sunlight or cold temperatures.  It is most often used for stoppage of growth that occurs when the temperature and sunlight reduction during winter.  

Fertilizer-Different types of compounds and minerals that are added to the soil that promote the growth of plants.  The exact moment that a seed sprouts.

Frost date, Last frost date, First frost date-Seed starting recommendations on seed packets typically refer to how many weeks before or after your last frost date to start your seeds either indoors or outdoors for your spring and summer garden.  The last frost date is referring to your last spring frost when there is a very good chance there will not be another frost that year for your area.  When a seed packet refers to first frost date, it is talking about the first frost in the fall for your area.  This is for fall and winter planting.

Full sun, Part sun, Part shade, Full Shade-These terms refer to how much sun the plant needs to do well.  Full sun generally means at least 6 hours of unobstructed sun.  Part sun is 4-6 hours of unobstructed sun.  Partial shade is 2-4 hours of direct sun.  Full shade is less than 2 hours.  Most edibles require full sun to thrive.  There are some that can produce in less than full sun. 

Germination/Pollination-Germination is the exact moment that a seed sprouts.  Pollination is when the plant's flower is fertilized.  The flower has to be fertilized in order to develop a viable seed.  Some plants require another like it to pollinate.  Those that do not require another plant are called self-fertile.  Different plants will germinate at different rates based on soil temperature.  Some like cool soil, others like warm soils.  Planting seeds too soon can results in them just rotting in the soil.
  
GMO, Hybrid, Heirloom, Open Pollinated-These are all terms for how a seed was developed.  GMO are genetically modified to withstand harsh chemicals and the rights are owned by the company.  Hybrids are seeds that have been developed through artificial pollination and any seeds produced by the plant will not come back identical to its parent.  Heirlooms are seeds that have been passed down from generation to generation.  There is much debate over how old it must be to be considered an heirloom.  Open pollinated are seeds that parents produce seeds that grow back like the parent plant.  All heirlooms are open pollinated.  There are many open pollinated crops being developed today.  If you like to save seeds, grow heirlooms or any open pollinated plant type.
 
Harden, Hardening off-When you gradually get a seedling or transplant used to the conditions in its final garden spot.  Wind, temperature and sun should all be taken into account.  In the spring, you would take the seedlings out under a covered area when it is warm and keep inside when it is really cold.  You add more time outdoors with increasing exposure to sun to give the plants a smooth transition to the growing conditions in the garden. 

Hardiness-This term is used in a couple of different ways.  It can refer to the climate zone that the perennial plant can survive from one year to the next.  It is also used to describe how well it can perform in different seasons of the year, like "extremely cold hardy".  It is ideal to grow varieties that do well in your area.  Ordering seeds and plants from companies near you ensures they do well in your climate.  

Manure-Animal waste used to fertilize and add organic matter to the soil.  Should either compost well before using in the garden or wait 120 days after adding to the soil to plant.  Most commonly used is cow, horse, chicken and rabbit manures.  "Hotter" refers to the level of nitrogen in the compost.  Hot manures like chicken manure can cause the plant roots to get burned and die.  Manures should be composted with copious amounts of soil or carbon materials like straw.  

Mulch-Organic matter used to cover bare earth.  Can be a variety of materials.  Most common in gardens is pine needles and straw.  Many use wood mulch as well.  If using spent hay, you may get unwanted grass sprouts.  If using wood mulch, would apply a nitrogen fertilizer right before putting down the mulch. 

Organic matter-Plant or animal matter that is decomposed or in the process of being broken down, like compost.  Both sandy and clay soils are helped with healthy doses of organic matter added to the garden.

Raised bed-When vegetables are grown in mounded garden soil.  Can have wood, stone, or concrete sides to keep the soil raised.  Raised beds will warm earlier in the spring and cool quicker in the fall.  They will also drain faster than a flat garden bed.  

Seed leaf, First true leaves-The first leaves that emerge from a seed are not "true" leaves.  They are actually part of the seed and called cotyledons.  The first leaves to form from the stem of the sprouted plant are called true leaves.

Seedling, Transplant-A seedling refers to a newly sprouted plant.  When the plant has grown significantly indoors or a protected location and is ready to be planted into its permanent spot in the garden or pot, it is considered a transplant. 

Soil test-It is a good idea to take samples of your garden soil from several locations, mix it and have it tested to see what nutrients it is deficient in.  Then, you know exactly what to add to your garden for optimal growth.  If you are already high in some nutrients and add more, you can actually stunt or kill garden plants.  

Sowing seeds, Seeding-This typically refers to putting seeds directly in the pot or garden spot where they will remain through the growing season.  It can also refer to just starting seeds that will be transplanted out after sprouting into their final growing spot in the garden or pot.

Succession planting-Succession planting means to sow the same seeds on an interval so that you get a continuous crop or harvest.  For example, sowing lettuce seeds every 2 weeks will keep you in salads spring, summer and at least through fall.

Sunscald-The sun can "burn" leaves and fruits of vegetables.  I commonly see sun scald on tomato and pepper fruits during the heat of the summer.  If transplants are not hardened off properly, you will see sun scald on the leaves.  Most of the time the plant will lose those leaves as it grows new leaves.

Thin, Thinning-When sowing seeds, most seed packets recommend sowing more than is healthy for long term growth.  You sow more to be sure you get enough plants because not 100% of the seeds will sprout and grow into seedlings.  After they have sprouted, you should thin to the recommended spacing on the seed packet.  You can either pinch off the tops of the unwanted seedlings or gently dig up and plant elsewhere.  

Till, Tilling, Rototilling-When you want to work in fertilizer, turn under weeds or cover crops, you will turn over the soil.  This is called tilling.  You can use a shovel, a spade or a rototiller machine to do the job.  Every time you do this, you are upsetting the microbial network of the soil.  If possible, use other methods to accomplish fertilizing and adding organic matter.  Adding amendments in the fall and covering in mulch will allow them to be incorporated by spring as an example.

Transplant, Transplanting-Moving a plant from one location to another is called transplanting.  The plant that is being moved is called a transplant.  When transplanting seedlings from indoors or a sheltered area to the garden be sure to harden the plant so it does not go into shock and possibly die.

Wilting-When a plant droops.  It can be from a variety of issues.  In the summer, it is generally because the plant has lost a great deal of moisture through its leaves during the hot part of the day.  If they recover, the plant likely has enough soil moisture.  In general, plants need about an inch of water a week.  Always check down a couple of inches to make sure the soil is actually dry before watering.  Too much water is just as bad as too little. 

Saturday, January 22, 2022

Calendar for starting indoor seeds

Hydroponic seed starting

Saturday, January 22, 2022

It may seem like spring is a long way away this time of year.  Luckily for us gardeners, we get to start spring early!  End of January into February is prime seed starting time indoors.  I have outlined by month the plant seeds to start indoors between now and April for our Zone 7 garden.  It is wonderful to see the little green sprouts shooting up with promise of a bountiful gardening season right around the corner!  Our daffodils are up with flower buds.  It won't be long now......

Many big box stores begin getting in their seeds as soon as the end of December these days.  The variety available in big box stores continues to expand as more and more of us are growing our own food.  If you are wanting something unique, try on line seed companies. Some of my favorites with a good selection of unusual, organic and heirloom vegetables, garden fruits and herbs are Abundant Life Seeds, Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, High Mowing Seeds, Johnny's Selected Seeds, Renee's Gardens, Seeds of Change, Territorial Seed Company, Seeds from Italy, Botanical Interest.   

Demand for seeds is huge right now.  Many are selling out of some varieties and the wait to get seeds can be as along as 3 weeks for others.  Order early to be sure to have them in hand when you want to get them started.

Using indoor seed starting is a great way to accelerate your harvest by up to two months.  Seed packets tell you how far in advance of your last frost date to start your seeds indoors or when to plant outdoors for "direct sowing" in the garden.  Just look on the back. Here is a web page to look up your last frost date: Frost date look up

January and February are primarily cold season crops seed starting time.  There are a few summer lovers that require a long growing season to produce that you start this early.  Cold season crops include your greens, broccoli, cabbage, strawberries and peas.  What is a four season garden?   For more on cool season crops for your spring edible garden, see Spring edible garden

March and April is the time for warm season veggie and herbs to get their indoor start.  Summer veggies include beans, tomatoes, beans, basil, eggplant, peppers and squash.  For more on your summer edible garden, see A summer edible garden  In general, you want to start your seeds as close to the time as you can to putting out into the garden; sooner is not necessarily better.

Here is when to start seeds indoors for your edible garden.

10-12 weeks prior (end Jan/beginning of Feb in our Zone 7 garden)
Artichokes
Arugula
Bay
Broccoli
Cabbage
Catnip
Celery
Chives
Edamame
Endive 
Escarole
Fennel
Fenu
Horseradish
Leek, if starting from seed
Lettuce
Mache
Mint
Mizuna
Onions, if starting from seed
Parsley
Peas
Rhubarb
Shallots, if starting from seed
Strawberries
Summer savory
Sorrel

8-10 weeks prior (mid-February in our Zone 7 garden)
Bee balm
Celeriac
Eggplant
Kale
Kohlrabi
Lavender
Lovage
Marjoram
Mustard
Oregano
Rosemary
Scallions, if starting from seed
Spinach
Thyme
Turnips

4-6 weeks prior to last frost (March in our garden)
Artichokes
Broccoli
Chamomile
Chard
Cilantro
Comfrey
Fennel
Lemon verbena
Okra
Peppers
Raddichio
Sage
Summer squash
Tarragon
Tomatoes

April
Basil
Beans
Cucumber
Melon
Winter squash
Stevia

You can find more crops seed starting times in this blog  Indoor sowing/outdoor planting dates

Another trick is to do succession seed starting.  For continuous harvests of veggies like broccoli, spinach and lettuce, start new seedlings every 3 weeks and plant out every three weeks in the garden.  For the early seedlings, use varieties that are described as cold hardy.  When you get to April, start seedlings that are heat tolerant.  Heat tolerant varieties will resist bolting and bitterness at the first sign of summer.  Get the most from your space-plant intensively!

You can start perennial flowers and veggies indoors as well.  For any plant, look at the seed packet for when to plant outdoors according to your frost date.  Then back up the time from there on when to start indoors.  Typical seed starting is 6-8 weeks prior to the plant out date.  For more on perennial fruits and veggie gardens, Perennial veggies in the Midwest garden

Sunday, January 16, 2022

Indoor seed starting tips for beginners

Hydroponic indoor seed starting
Sunday, January 16, 2022

Are there tricks to successful seed starting?  The most sure fire I have found with a gadget is the Aerogarden with the seed starting tray.  I have almost 100% germination rate with it.  I also start many seeds in the basic seed starting kits you get from the big box stores with good luck.  It took some time to figure out how to have success with these kits.  Here is what I have learned.

With the Aerogarden hydroponic seed starting system, I don't even have to worry about using a heating pad for the warm season crops.   It is easy to take the seedlings and just plant into larger pot or directly into the garden when they are the right size for transplanting.  There are a couple of  drawbacks with this system-the unit is pricey and the plugs you need to buy each year are about twice the cost of peat pods.

For any system, you need to make sure everything you use is sterilized.  I have an older Aerogarden seed starting system.  It has a styrofoam seed starting tray.  Even using a bleach solution did not remove the mold.  Last year, I put the tray in the summer sun and that removed all the mold stains.

For other seed starting approaches, I have had the best success using a heat mat and grow light that I leave on during the day and turn off at night.  Many cool season loving plant seeds won't even germinate at the high temperatures the heat mat provides.  By turning off the heat mat at night, it gives the cool season crops the temperatures they need to germinate.  The warm temperatures during the day give the summer lovers the higher temperatures they need to germinate.  The best of both worlds!

Another key learning I had was that you don't want your seed starting medium to be too wet.    You want the medium to be moist.  Sopping wet soil can cause the seed to mold instead of germinate.

Here are some ideas on making your own seed starting systems  Make your own peat pots  

Seed starting steps
The key is starting with sterile seed starting mix, pots, containers and trays.  For the trays and containers, sterilize with alcohol or bleach solution.  You can make your own seed starting mix with peat moss or coir (renewable), compost, and vermiculite.  Just be sure to heat the compost to at least 150 degrees to kill any pathogens before using to start seeds.

Place the seeds in the starter mix in the pots after wetting the soil or coir thoroughly from the bottom (watering from the top can dislodge seeds).  Make sure to eliminate any air pockets in the soil before planting.  You can lightly press down on the soil with your finger or water overhead before planting the seed.  You don't want your soil mix to be completely wet, but nice and damp.  Seeds need oxygen to germinate.  Waterlogged soil can result in moldy seeds instead of seedlings.

After fully moist, they are ready to put in a catch pan.  Make sure any catch pan that you use has been thoroughly sprayed with alcohol or washed in a bleach solution so all pathogens are killed.  Rinse well after sterilizing and before using for seedlings.

Make sure you label your seedlings as soon as you plant them; you may think you will remember 2 months from now what was where, but likely not!  Now is also a great time to start keeping a gardening journal.  Start tracking what you planted when so you can review next year what worked well to repeat and what didn’t work so well to tweak.

I put my seed starts in a plastic tray in a sunny window or under LED grow lights that I have had for years that you can buy at any big box store.  Using two T8 fluorescent bulbs or grow light bulbs for 16 hours per day should provide enough light to grow sturdy seedlings.  

Keep moist, but not wet, until seedling emerges.  Water from the bottom so as not to disturb the seed/seedling.  Pour off any standing water to discourage fungal disease.  You can use a spray bottle to keep the seedling and soil damp as well.  
Peat pods and Aerogarden on heating mat
Use bottom heat during the day to encourage speedy germination (turn off at night).  As soon as the seedlings have sprouted, discontinue the heat.  Additional heat helps speed germination and reduce the chance of mold or fungal disease.  By only using heat during the day and discontinuing heat after emerging, that has eliminated the dampening off of my seedlings.

Once your seedlings have sprouted, gently run your hand over them.  This encourages the stem to strengthen.  I tried this for the first time last year after hearing from an Extension Agent and Master Gardener that she had done studies using this technique.  I did see a difference in stem strength doing this.

Some swear by using a small fan to blow on your seedlings to strengthen their stems to make transplanting safer.

Whatever you do, handle the seedling by its leaves and not its stem.  This reduces the risk that you will bend over or break the stem which kills the seedling.

Your seedlings will need diluted liquid fertilizer starting 3 weeks after planting.  Using a weak fish emulsion is said to help prevent dampening off.  It should be no greater than half strength as these are tiny plants that don't need as much food as a full size plant.

For larger seeds, and seedlings, either start directly in the garden at the recommended time on the seed packet.  I always start peas and green beans directly in the garden bed.  Other larger seedlings like cucumbers, squash and tomatoes, choose a larger pot to start them in or transplant from the small peat pods to a small pot before transplanting to the garden.

Your seedling’s first leaves are not “true” leaves, think of them as baby teeth.  The second set of leaves are their true leaves.  They are ready to be hardened off when they have their first set of true leaves.  Seedlings must be hardened and not just thrown outside.  You take them out a little at a time, gradually increasing their exposure to sun and cold, only during the daytime.  I try and plant when there is a warm spell and there are clouds forecasted to minimize the shock.

Once the seedling is up and going, spacing them a couple of inches apart helps the plants to grow sturdy stems instead of spindly.  When crowded, the seedlings race to get to the light.  If they are still leggy, it is likely insufficient light.  Make sure you are keeping your artificial light as close to the seedlings as possible.  

Don't be too worried if you have leggy seedlings.  Once hardened off outdoors, they will strengthen up.  You just have to be extra careful in handling them as their stems will be very fragile.  The best time to transplant is when recommended on the seed packet and when the seedling has nice roots that you can see throughout the soil.  Always harden off before planting.  Make sure the soil is moist and the seedling is fertilized when you plant so it has everything it needs to get growing.

It seems I grow more and more varieties from seeds, from flowers to herbs to fruits and veggies.  There are just so many fun varieties out there!  I also have saved seeds from store bought veggies that I thought were cool and tasted great.

There are great selections of herbs and veggies at nurseries and big box stores nowadays so you have many options, including heirlooms. You can wait until spring is officially here and pick up what looks good at your nearby store in a couple of months.  Your local gardening centers will also carry the varieties best suited for your area.  This is also a great back up if your first seed starting adventure goes a little awry...........

Saturday, January 15, 2022

What to plant in the January 2022 edible garden

Starting seeds in peat pods and Aerogarden
Saturday, January 15, 2022

In January, there are things you can plant and seeds you can start outdoors if you have a hotbed.  For most, January is the time to get started sowing seeds indoors for a head start on spring and summer harvests.  

Hot beds have been around for hundreds of years.  Before there was electricity, hot beds were heated by 18" of fresh and dried horse manure, covered by 12" of soil.  A pit was dug down so that the manure and soil were below ground level to keep the heat in.  It was covered by a wooden box with a glass angled to the sun.  Today, the same can be done.  Folks also use a light bulb or heating pad to keep the temperature above freezing and below 55 degrees F.

There are cole crops that can be placed in hot beds and seeds sown even at this time of year.  Winter gardening in hot beds is successful even Zone 4.  For more on cold season gardening, see Cold season crops for your edible garden and Winter edible garden.

January outdoor hot beds
Winter hardy lettuce transplants
Cauliflower transplants
Strawberry transplants
Cold hardy lettuce seeds
Carrot seeds
Radish seeds
Spinach seeds
Austrian winter pea seeds

January yard, garden bed
Bare root fruit trees and bushes

For more on edible gardening in cold weather, How to extend the garden season.  

More popular is to start seeds indoors in January.  There are many seeds that can be started this time of year.  Take a look at your frost date and seed packet for the best time to plant.  Earlier is not always better!  If left indoors too long, the seedlings just get spindly and weak.  In our Zone 7, the last spring frost date is typically April 3, which is 13 weeks from now.  Find your frost date

January edible plants-indoor seed starting
12-16 weeks before last frost
Cabbage
Celery and Celeriac
Corn Salad (Mache)
Onions
12 weeks before last frost
Artichokes
Parsley
Peas
10-12 weeks before last frost
Endive
Escarole
Leeks
8-12 weeks before last frost
Eggplant
Kale
Kohlrabi
Mustard
Spinach
Sprouting broccoli

There are many flower seeds that can be started in January as well.  Butterfly weed, Chinese lanterns, Drumstick flower, Angel's trumpet, Delphinium, Sweet William, Foxglove, Eucalyptus, Blanket flower, Helianthus maximilliani, Hollyhock, Lisianthus, Lupine, Pansy, Petunia, Prince's feather, Black-eyed Susan, Snapdragon, Stock, Verbana, Yarrow are a few that can be started indoors in January. 

I find this planting calculator helpful Planting calculator  to see what crops and flowers to start seeds indoors, outdoors and when to transplant.  You just plug in your last frost date and it will calculate the dates for you.

Thursday, January 13, 2022

January 2022 Edible Garden Planner

It's seed catalog season!

Thursday, January 13, 2022

January is the time of dreaming and planning for your spring and summer garden.  Seed catalogs are in full swing and big box stores and local nurseries have seeds and seed starting gear on the shelves.   It is an exciting time for browsing the magazines and making the garden plan for the upcoming year!  Seed companies are highly recommending that you order sooner rather than later again this year.  They are expecting another record year of demand.

Grow what you love!
The easiest way to fall in love with gardening is growing what you love to eat and look at.  There is nothing like strolling out to the garden to see what's ripe and tasty for dinner, gathering blooms to bring inside.  If you have ever wanted to plant a kitchen garden, but weren’t sure if you had the space or skills, you may be surprised.

We grow all we need for fresh eating and putting away for the winter in our flower beds.  Just mix in greens, herbs and veggies.  It looks great, flowers attract beneficial insects for more veggie production, and is so easy to run out and get what you want to eat that day right outside your door.

If you aren't sure you can grow veggies, start with herbs.  Herbs thrive on neglect so are a great choice for dipping your toe into the edible gardening arena.  This is how I transitioned from a purely ornamental garden to integrating edibles into my flower beds.  A bonus is many herbs are perennials so only have to be planted once and come back year after year.  

Herbs come in all different sizes as well.  I love growing creeping thyme between stepping stones and around the perimeter of the garden.  Oregano and tarragon are taller and have a tendency to fill out a space so better for the back of the garden.  And there are many in between.  Pick herbs that you use a lot in cooking and use those in your flower bed as a start.

You can grow a lot in a small space
It is common for Italians and French to have a small kitchen garden where they grow herbs, greens and vegetables year round.  It is amazing the amount of food you can grow in a very small space!  How to decide what to plant for small spaces?

If you have only a 6’ x 6’ space, a Mediterranean kitchen garden could include the following:
Herbs (1 each)-thyme, rosemary, sage, oregano, and flat leaf parsley 
3 basil plants (for pesto and seasoning)  
2 tomatoes-1 small fruiting and 1 slicer type 
2 sweet pepper plants  
1 zucchini (look for “bush” types as they are more compact)  
1 eggplant 
8 red bunching onions 
8 garlic plants 
Arugula, spinach and lettuce scatter sowed  

For more details on a compact French garden:  Small space French kitchen garden
For an Italian garden:  Heirloom Sicilian kitchen garden  To entice the little ones, an Italian garden can also be called a "Pizza or Spaghetti Garden"!  Pizza garden for the kids

Use your patio to grow edibles with flowers 
If you also have room for pots on the patio, you could grow the zucchini, eggplant, and cucumber in pots  (only 1 plant in each pot) and add 3 bush or 6 pole bean plants in the garden bed or pot with a trellis for them to grow up.  Traditional bush beans would be lentils, Romano, Capitano, Cannellini, fava; pole beans-Roma, Helda, Supermarconi.  Personally, I would stick with the beans you eat whole as shelled beans you do not get as much food per plant, and less food per space in a small garden.
If you have more room, you can add almonds (yes, they survive Midwest winters), beets, chard, fennel, chickpeas, figs (grows well in a pot too), asparagus, cardoon, chicories, radicchio, endives, broccoli, cauliflower, or annual artichokes.  

If you are just beginning a garden, do start small.  You want the garden to be fun and relaxing, not overwhelming.  Don't be afraid to begin.  The force of life is strong and really doesn't need much from us.  Buy a few plants in the early spring and just put them in the ground with a natural fertilizer and you will be amazed at how they just go to town all by themselves!
Vintage WW2 poster
For seed catalogues, the ones that have the best chance of thriving in your garden are the ones that do their trials in your area of the country.  The seeds and plants they carry are the ones that have performed the best for them in their trial gardens.  Baker Creek is fun because they specialize heirlooms and rare seeds from around the world and are here in the Midwest.  Territorial Seeds has a good summary in each section of growing tips and their seed farms are mainly in the Northwest.  I have had very good success with both.

My favorite catalogs are the ones that the links are on the right.  I have ordered from them all and been happy with their selection and how well the plants did.


Still having trouble deciding?  Well, you have some time before the season starts.  Heck, you can procrastinate all the way to June..........  It is not too late to start a garden in June!  You can use this time to make your plan based on what you eat this winter.  Use this winter to figure out what to grow in the ...