Saturday, March 25, 2023

What's happening in the late March edible garden

Daffodils and hyacinth blooming, daylilies sprouting
Saturday, March 25, 2023

Spring in our garden started early with unseasonably warm temperatures and has now slowed with below average March temperatures.  It got down into the lower 20's 2 nights this week.  We are back up to normal temps so I think spring is here to stay!  Daffodils, forsythias, hyacinths, Bradford pear and reduce trees are flowering now and most of the edibles I started outside are sprouting.   

When forsythias bloom, it is time to apply corn gluten for weed suppression in the garden and yard.  Corn gluten keeps seeds from sprouting and provides nitrogen.  It will also keep grass seed or garden seed from sprouting so use only where you don't want seeds to come up.

In the edible garden, onions, tarragon, garlic chives, mountain mint, and spearmint are all popping up in the garden bed and pots.  Overwintering arugula, carrots, celery, lettuce, cress, pok choi, cabbage , thyme and oregano are growing again.  Chickweed is flowering and growing vigorously.  The garden is giving greens for fresh picked salads.

I have been sowing cold season crop seeds outdoors for a while now.  I started in January with Austrian peas in pots under the portable greenhouse cover (they're over a foot long now).  At the first of February, I planted snow peas-Avalanche with 30" vine, Little Purple Snowpea with 24" vine and Oregon Sugar Pod II with a 28" vine.  I planted these in pots outdoors, too.  All are a few inches long now.  I could start using the pea shots for salads.  Peas and potatoes can be planted as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring.

In late February, it was quite warm.  I planted Giant Winter and Galilee spinach and Dragon's Tail radish in pots.  Giant Winter does well in cool weather and gives very big leaves.  Galilee is a new one for me this year and it is supposed to be very heat tolerant.  All have sprouted and are growing well.

The last week of February, I planted lettuce in pots outside.  I started Royal Oak leaf, Oak Leaf, Red Sails, Forellenschluss, Green Salad Bowl, Butter King, Bronze Beauty, Solar Flare and Lunix lettuces.  These pots are under my portable green house frame so can be covered if it gets really cold as it did last week end.  

I also planted other greens that stay sweet in the heat of our summers-Hilton, Golden Beauty and Scarlett F1 Chinese cabbages (they have large leaves that can also be used as wraps), Aurora mixed colors orach, Perpetual Spinach and Verde de Taglio chards. 

I did a round of herbs, too.  Planting rosemary, flat leaf parsley, dill, sweet basil, garden chives, and cilantro.  It is early to be planting basil and rosemary so I will have to cover them when it gets below freezing at night.  A packet of seeds is way more than I would use in years so if they do get frost bit, I have lots more seeds to try again.

At the beginning of April, I will sow seeds for amaranths (beautiful foliage or flower varieties and edible to boot) and New Zealand spinach to finish out my salad greens for summer into fall.  As soon as all frost danger has passed in April, I will sow seeds for Cardinal basil and sage.

I also started separating garden plants, too.  A couple of weeks ago, I dug all my volunteer garlic chives and repotted them for our annual master gardener plant sale.  I separated mountain mint and the cute blue flag iris for the plant sale, too.  Both of these are natives, too.  When it warms back up, I will separate my daylilies and native spiderwort flowers for the sale.

Last year, we didn't mulch until late April.  This was too late and smothered many of my self-seeders that were just starting to sprout.  Early March is an ideal time to mulch.  It's before the self-seeders are sprouting and it adds warmth to soil.  

This year, we mulched and amended the beds in early March.  I had had a soil test done that showed my soil was getting on the high side for alkalinity (pH 7.6) and needed nitrogen and a minor amount of potash.  I added those as well as sulfur to lower the pH into the range preferred by most edibles.  I added a thin layer of compost and then topped it all with mulch.  It is best to either dig in your nitrogen fertilizer or cover it soon after you spread it.  If not, the nitrogen reacts with the oxygen in the air and doesn't stay in the soil.

For growing edibles, you can count on needing at least nitrogen addition unless you are doing nitrogen fixing cover crops.  I have tried a few different all natural nitrogen fertilizers.  Kelp adds a variety of minerals plus it has growth hormones in it so is a great choice for plants you want a lot of height for.  Many of the organic fertilizers use chicken manure as a main component.  We have chickens so I compost their bedding to use in the garden.  I use alfalfa meal too for planting and adding to my greens during the growing season.

If you are creating new beds, which I did this year, put down cardboard first before fertilizing and mulching.  This added layer will keep the grass and weeds smothered while attracting earthworms.  Earthworms love cardboard!  They not only loosen the soil, but also fertilize it.  A real win-win. 

If you don't have a lot of time this year, transplants are always a great option.  Cool season crop transplants are at the local nurseries and big box stores now.  They have broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, onion sets, lettuce, strawberries, potato sets, boxed dormant fruit bushes and trees.  The rest of the cool season transplants will be coming in over the next couple of weeks.  It's time to buy what you want for your spring garden and transplant!  
Overwintering cabbage and broccoli
I'll be buying lettuce and spinach to supplement what overwintered and what I have already sown.  I won't need more than a couple 6 packs with everything I have already sown.  Buying plants will speed up the harvest date.

Soon the big box stores will have herb transplants.  The ones that can be planted now are thyme, sage, garlic, parsley, and celery.  I'd hold off on the rosemary and especially the basil.  If it gets even close to freezing, basil can be killed in the garden.  You can buy and keep in a sunny window in the garage and they should be fine.

It won't be long before there are tomatoes in the store, too.  I'd wait on those.  Tomatoes, peppers and eggplant all need warm days and warm soil to thrive.  A freeze can kill them.  I usually wait until May to plant these summer lovers.  

Sunday, March 19, 2023

What to plant in the March edible garden

March garden bed, ready for planting
Sunday, March 19, 2023

March and April are prime time for cold season crops like greens, cabbage, kale, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, beets, radishes and cauliflower.  In March, you can direct sow (plant seeds in an outdoor pot or your garden bed), start seeds indoors or transplant plants that you have bought locally or raised indoors.

Big box stores have had their seeds on display for over a month now.  In our area, plants began arriving in this week in stores or you can order online.  The variety available in big box stores continues to expand as more and more of us are growing our own food.  If you are wanting something unique, try on line seed companies. Some of my favorites with a good selection of organic vegetables, garden fruits, and herbs-Abundant Life Seeds, Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, High Mowing Seeds, Johnny's Selected Seeds, Renee's Garden, Seeds of Change, Territorial Seed Company, Seeds from Italy, Botanical Interest.  Many have plants as well as seeds.  

If you are not sure what to plant, here are some ideas on figuring that out.  How to know what to grow

Using indoor seed starting is a great way to accelerate your harvest by up to two months.  Seed packets tell you how far in advance of your last frost date to start your seeds indoors or when to plant outdoors for "direct sowing" in the garden.  Just look on the back. Here is a web page to look up your last frost date: Frost date look up

Cold season crops include your greens, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, radishes, turnips, beets, cauliflower, strawberries and peas.  For more on spring gardens, see  A spring edible garden   Starting these varieties in a portable greenhouse will give you a jump on harvest time.  I like starting seeds in my portable greenhouse and once they get to a good, sturdy size, thinning and transplanting out to the garden bed.  I have sowed many varieties already last month and this month outdoors.  Many have already sprouted.  We have warm up forecasted this coming week which should get the rest poking through.

March and April is also the time for warm season veggie and herbs to get their indoor start.  Summer veggies include beans, tomatoes, basil, eggplant, peppers, okra and squash.  Summer veggies go into the garden after chance of frost has passed and the soil has warmed.  In our area, that is first of May for the soil to warm.  You don't really get an advantage in planting the summer veggies early because they don't grow until the ground warms up.  I just imagine them sitting in the dirt with their roots and stems shivering.  See this blog on summer veggies for more info.  A summer edible garden

Seeds to start in garden bed or transplant outdoors for our Zone 7 garden
Arugula
Asparagus
Beets
Broccoli
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Catnip
Celeriac
Celery
Chard
Chervil
Chives
Cilantro
Collards
Corn salad
Endive 
Escarole
Fennel
Fenu
Horseradish
Kale
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
Mache
Mint
Mizuna
Mustard
Onions
Pak choi
Parsley
Parsnips
Peas
Potatoes
Raddichio
Radishes
Rhubarb
Salsify
Scallions
Shallots
Sorrel
Spinach
Strawberries
Summer savory
Turnips

Start seeds indoors
Artichokes and cardoons
Basil
Bay
Bee balm
Cauliflower
Chamomile
Comfrey
Dill
Eggplant
Edamame
Fennel
Kohlrabi
Lavender
Lemon verbena
Lovage
Marjoram
Okra
Oregano
Peppers
Rosemary
Sage
Tarragon
Tomatoes
Thyme
Seedlings started in an Aerogarden hydroponic system
You can find more crops seed starting times in this blog  Indoor sowing/outdoor planting dates

Another trick is to do succession seed starting.  For continuous harvests of veggies like broccoli, spinach and lettuce, start new seedlings every 3 weeks and plant out every three weeks in the garden.  Keep the harvest going, do succession planting  For the early seedlings, use varieties that are described as cold hardy.  When you get to April, start seedlings that are heat tolerant.  Heat tolerant varieties will resist bolting and bitterness at the first sign of summer.  Keep salads going all summer long

You can also start perennial flowers and veggies indoors as well.  For any plant, look at the seed packet for when to plant outdoors according to your frost date.  Then back up the time from there on when to start indoors.  Typical seed starting is 6-8 weeks prior to the plant out date.  For more on perennial fruits and veggie gardens, Perennial veggies in the Midwest garden

For tips on seed starting: 

Trying to decide what to plant for this year's garden?  Here are some garden ideas:

Don't be worried about the work of putting in an edible garden bed.  You can simply grow veggies in your existing mulched beds right along with your flowers in the ground or pots!  Weed free, self fertilizing, till free garden beds

Saturday, March 18, 2023

Use flowers as companions to your edibles

Marigolds planted around the perimeter of the garden bed
Saturday, March 18, 2023

Most have heard of the 3 Sisters-corn, beans and squash planted together.  This is an example of companion planting-planting veggies together that help each other out.  Plants can give off chemicals, create usable nitrogen, have scents, suck nutrients or bring nutrients to the surface that can be either beneficial or detrimental to those planted near them.  In addition to edibles helping out each other, flowers can also be companion planted for their benefit to your edibles.

Here are 10 flowers that benefit the edibles they are planted next to for either their pest attractiveness or pest repelling properties.
1.  Basil-has bunches of tiny flowers that the bees love, repels thrips and disrupts the habits of the moths that produce tomato hornworm.  Interplant with tomatoes and peppers.
2.  Borage-trap crop for aphids.  Aphids love beans, beets, bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, chard, cucumber, kale, lettuce, potatoes, pumpkin, squash and tomatoes.  Plant borage in another part of the garden from these crops to attract the aphids away from them.
3.  Calendula (pot marigold)-repels asparagus beetles and tomato hornworms; attracts aphids to use as a trap crop.  Plant away from beans, beets, bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, chard, cucumber, kale, lettuce, potatoes, pumpkin, and tomatoes.  Interplant with asparagus and squash.
4.  Cornflower-attracts microplitis mediator which is a parasitoid of cabbage moths.  Interplant with kale, cabbage, and broccoli plants.
5.  Cosmos-white or bright orange to attract green lacewings which eat lots and lots of soft bodied insects like aphids, scale and thrips.  Interplant with beans, beets, bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, chard, cucumber, kale, lettuce, mustard, potatoes, pumpkin, squash and tomatoes.
6.  French marigold-contains anti fungal and pesticidal compounds as well as its fragrance repelling deer and rabbits, squash bugs, thrips, tomato hornworms and whiteflies; root secretions can kill nematodes.  Plant around the perimeter of your garden beds to discourage rabbits and deer.  Interplant with beans, brassicas, cucumbers, eggplant, okra, potatoes, tomatoes, squash, and peppers.
7.  Lavendar-fragrance repels deer, ticks, slugs and cabbage moths.  Plant around the border of your garden to discourage deer and interplant with kale, lettuce, broccoli, cabbage and mustard.
8.  Nasturtium-trap crop for flea beetles, aphids and cabbage moths, repels squash bugs.  Plant away from beans, beets, bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, chard, cucumber, kale, lettuce, potatoes, pumpkin, and tomatoes.  Interplant with squash. 
9.  Sage-has pretty lavender flowers that attract pollinators and repels carrot flies and cabbage moths.  Interplant with carrots, broccoli, cabbage, kale and mustard.
10.  Zinnia-pastel varieties act as a trap crop for Japanese beetles.  Japanese beetles will eat just about any fruit or vegetable crop.  You may want to avoid planting lightly colored zinnias in or around your garden if you currently do not have a Japanese beetle problem.  If you do, plant well away from anything you don't want the beetles to feast upon.

Any flower will attract pollinators which greatly improves fruit production of your vegetables so don't hesitate to plant other flowers than listed here.  Your fruits and veggies will thank you!

Sunday, March 12, 2023

How to keep the deer away

Edible and ornamental garden in the backyard
Sunday, March 11, 2023

I now live in the country where deer bed down in our front yard at night.  We bought our vacation house 12 years ago.  The first year we were here, the deer didn't seem to bother any of my newly planted ornamental plants.  The second summer, we came home one week end and all my hostas and daylilies had been eaten to the ground.  It was time to figure out how to keep them away!

I did lots of reading online for what keeps deer from eating ornamentals and edibles.  The biggest thing it seems you should know is that deer can't see very well, but have a great sense of smell that they use to navigate with.  They stay away from smelly things as it messes up their navigation.  Many talked about using a very fragrant soap like Irish Spring but that didn't seem to work long term.  I read somewhere that WD40 was abhorrent to the deer.  Fragrant herbs and marigolds acted as a deterrent, too.

What I have found that works well for me is a combination of fragrant herbs planted throughout the ornamental and edible garden with a perimeter of marigolds.  In addition, I use the Deer Off stakes and in between each of the stakes, I re-use last year's Deer Off stakes with old socks on them.  I wet the top of the socks with WD40 or with Bobbex, a stinky deer deterrent.  Either seems to work at keeping the deer at bay.  The Deer Off stakes I replace annually every spring, the socks I reapply every other month.  Make sure the deterrents are no more than 3 feet apart.

One thing to note is that the trick is to keep them from "discovering" all the great things for them to eat in your garden because once they have found it, they keep coming back.  If they are already eating your garden, they'll need to get distracted to forget about it so it may take a few weeks after you have put out the deterrents for them to get the deer out.  I think this may be why there is such variation in reviews on if something works or doesn't work.  If deer are hungry and are already eating on your plants, there is little you can do to get them to immediately stop.  So don't give up if deer have been eating your plants and the deterrents you just put up don't have an immediate effect.  They will over time.

This combination approach has worked for me for 10 years.  The only time deer start munching around the edges is when I don't reapply the deterrent on the socks or wait too long in the spring to put in new Deer Off stakes.

Saturday, March 11, 2023

What to start indoors and outdoors 4 weeks before last frost

3 different types of Chinese Cabbage started outdoors 2 weeks ago
Saturday, March 11, 2023

In our area, we have 4 weeks left of potential frosty mornings.  Now is a great time to continue to sow outdoors crops that like it cool and start indoors the summer lovers.   

For your frost date:  Frost date look up

Seeds to sow outdoors
Here is a list of the cool season crops you can sow seeds for right not in the outdoor garden for areas where it is 4 weeks or less for the last forecasted frost.
Arugula
Beets
Bok choy
Broccoli
Cabbage
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celery
Chard
Chives
Collards
Cultivated dandelions
Fava beans
Kale
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Mache
Mustard greens
Onions
Parsley
Parsnips
Peas
Potatoes
Radishes
Rhubarb
Spinach
Turnips
Snow pea seedlings started outdoors in February
Seedlings to transplant outdoors
  Broccoli
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Chard
Fava Beans
Kohlrabi
Leek sets
Lettuce
Onion sets
Peas
Spinach

Seeds to sow indoors
Basil
Peppers
Cantaloupes
Cucumbers
Eggplant
Oregano
Pumpkin
Rosemary
Sage
Thyme
Tomatoes
Watermelon

For more details on cool season crops and summer lovers:

Monday, March 6, 2023

March 2023 Edible Garden Planner

March garden with lettuce and spinach
Monday, March 6, 2023

Feels like spring is here in our area with its above normal temperatures.  Daffodils and crocus has been blooming for weeks.  Forsythia and Bradford pear trees are in full bloom, daylilies and spiderwort flowers greenery is showing.  

If you have not already, it is time to test your soil, get your garden beds ready for planting, finalize the plan for your spring garden and get planting! 

Soil Testing and Bed Preparation
Now is the time to clean up your beds and determine what your soil needs to feed and support your plants through the coming growing seasons.  Remove all the dead plant material still left from last season.  If you had any disease problem, do not compost.  I always leave anything with seed heads through the winter for the birds then remove what remains this time of year.  

You can take a soil sample to our local county co-op extension office to have it tested or buy a do it yourself kit at any big box store or local nursery.  You can do a more extensive soil test by sending your soil sample off.  Here is a link to my blog on soil nutrition:  The next step in garden production and your nutrit...  There is a great analysis web site that will provide a specialized fertilizer designed just for your garden deficiencies that you can make yourself.  Well fed plants grow better and are more nutritious for you, too.  A win-win.

If you don’t want to go to the trouble of testing, a sure way to enrich your soil is to use a balanced organic fertilizer and compost.  I add organic material every spring with a layer of compost, then fertilizer and top with hardwood mulch in the garden beds, building the soil’s fertility and its ability to hold water.

A local CSA farmer and organic gardener told me a few years ago that it is important to not let your fertilizer just lay on top of the ground as many of the nutrients will be lost, especially nitrogen.  My spring routine to build the soil is always to put down an organic fertilizer like Espoma or Re-Vita Pro, then a layer of compost and top with mulch.  Nitrogen oxidizes easily with the air so be sure to cover your fertilizer with soil, compost or mulch every time you fertilize.  You can make your own balanced fertilizer, too, which is pretty inexpensive  Make your own all natural, complete fertilizer

If this is your first time gardening, it is super easy to buy plants and put in pots or plant in your established flower beds with your flowers.    Easy kitchen garden  How to know what to grow  Surprising veggies that can be grown in pots  If you are really nervous, the easiest garden to start with are herbs.  They love to be neglected!  My first edible garden were herbs.  Most herbs are perennials so you plant them once and they come back every year.  Start a kitchen herb garden!

Finalize your garden plan
Before your start planting, take pen to paper and finalize your spring garden plan.  Every fall, I capture what went well for the growing season, what I want to learn more about over the winter, and a plan for the coming season.  You will forget if you don't write it down.  A garden journal is a great tool for gardening.

The big box stores have out their seed and plant racks so they should have transplants soon.  This is a good and easy way to look for what will grow well in your area.  The types that like cold weather that will be out soon are cabbage, broccoli, spinach, lettuce, leeks, onion sets, potato sets, blueberry, raspberry, and blackberry bare root plants.  Spring edible garden
Mid March garden
The greens I will plant in our mini greenhouse to keep them warmer and encourages growth so we get fresh salads as soon as possible.  They will do just fine in the garden bed too.  I just love spring salads!

Some varieties I enjoy growing in the spring garden:  
Green Oakleaf Lettuce-ready to harvest in 45 days  Everything you need to know about growing lettuce
Wild Garden Kales-ready to harvest in 30 days Grow one of the super greens this year-kale
Mesclun Valentine Lettuce mix (red tinted lettuce and greens)-ready to harvest in 30-55 days
Marvel of Four Seasons Butterhead Lettuce (I love the sweet taste of butterheads)-ready to harvest in 55 days Everything you need to know about growing lettuce
Red Sails Lettuce (a ruffled red and green, stays sweet even after bolting)-ready to harvest in 45 days
Space Hybrid Spinach-ready to harvest in 38 days  Grow spinach-a super nutritious, easy green
Gourmet Blend Lettuce (Prizeleaf, Royal Oak Leaf, Salad Bowl, Ashley)-ready to harvest in 45 days
Sugar snap peas-ready to harvest in 70 days Time to plant peas!
All kinds of broccoli or cauliflower-ready to harvest in 50-80 days (leaves are great in salads) Broccoli and cauliflower growing tips
Cabbage-ready to harvest in 68 days.  Cabbage is nutritious and easy to grow
Carrots-ready to harvest in 50-75 days  Grow crunchy, colorful carrots practically year round
Parsley-70 days to harvest  
Potatoes-ready to begin harvest in 70 days  Time to plant potatoes, even if you only have a patio

The above can be companion planted with radishes, beets, chives, garlic, and onions.  Since they are shallow rooted, they grow well with root crops.  Get the most from your space-plant intensively!

When I plant, I plant with a handful of worm compost and water in with fish emulsion.  Germination should take anywhere from 4-15 days., depending on how warm the soil is.  I am out in the garden looking for little green shoots daily!  Decorative container gardening for edibles

Important tip-if planting seeds in a mulched bed, be sure to cover the seed with only soil; most seedlings are too weak to push through mulch.  Mulching your beds keeps the weeds from sprouting, too.  Weed free, self fertilizing, till free garden beds 
Potato box
Zone 6/7 Spring Garden Roadmap

Planting seedlings outdoors:
Now (or as soon as the soil can be worked)-fruit trees and vines, nut trees, asparagus, garlic, leeks, onions, peas
Mid-March-cabbage, kale, lettuce, mustards, spinach
Beginning of April-broccoli, cauliflower, cilantro, more lettuce, lemon balm, parsley
Mid-April-corn, marigolds, rosemary, sage, thyme
First of May-basil, chives, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes
Mid-May-cantaloupe, eggplant, okra, squash, watermelon

Starting your seeds outdoors**:
Now (or as soon as the soil can be worked): peas, spinach, lettuce, radish, mustards
Mid-March: all the above plus arugula, bok choy, cabbage, carrot, collards, leeks, mache, onion. rhubarb, cultivated dandelions
End March:  all the above plus fava beans, beets, broccoli, carrot, Chinese cabbage, cress, kale, kohlrabi, leek, mizuna, parsley, parsnip, early potatoes, turnip

**One watch out is planting seeds too soon.  Seeds have to have a certain soil temperature to sprout.  Plant too soon and the seed will rot and not sprout.  Here are some soil temp guidelines.  Temps to plant seeds outdoors  Be sure to harden off your seedlings before planting outdoors if started inside  "Hardening off" seedlings

Starting your seeds indoors for summer planting:
Now-lemon balm, parsley, sage, thyme, lettuce, cress, chard
Mid-March-basil, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, okra, marigolds, eggplant
End of March-cantaloupe, cucumber, lettuce, peppers, tomatoes

These dates are just guidelines.  You can start your seedlings later and plant your transplants later as well.  Be sure to read the seed packet for what you are starting.  They make all kinds of varieties that are cold hardy and can be planted sooner than what I outlined above.  If you get a cold snap, there are things you can do to protect your early crops.  Extend the season with protection for plants

Happy gardening!