Saturday, November 22, 2025

How to read seed packets for planting your garden

Front of seed packet
Saturday, November 22, 2025

Seed packets are a wealth of information on the plant and its ideal growing conditions.  All give you the plant common and botanical name, many show you when to plant in your zone, when to plant in relationship to your frost date, how far apart to plant, what type of soil it grows well in, amount of sunlight needed for optimal growth, how many days from sowing until the plant is harvestable, and a detailed description of the highlights of the plant itself.  I love reading plant descriptions, looking for varieties that are "compact" and "prolific" for my small garden or "winter hardy" for winter gardening, or "heat tolerant" for summer gardening.  They give a wealth of information to decide what new variety or crop to try next.

On the front of the seed packet, you typically get the common name, the botanical name and a picture or drawing of the plant.  Some seed companies will also put a clay pot symbol on the front to indicate that the plant does well in a container (see pic of Burpee's seed packets below).  Many will also indicate if the plant is an annual or perennial (comes back every year).  Most also give a very short description of the plant.  They will also say if they are "organic" or "hybrid".  Some will also state if the plant is "open pollinated" or "heirloom".  

99% of what I grow is open pollinated or heirloom.  All heirlooms are open pollinated varieties that have been around for generations.  Open pollinated varieties come back "true" to their parents.  Hybrids won't necessarily come back the same as their parents.  I like saving seed from the plants that do well to plant again next year.    
Back of seed packet
On the back side of the seed packet there is a wealth of growing information.  You typically get when to plant the seed in relation to your frost date for both starting indoors and outdoors, germination time (how long does it take from when you plant the seed until it sprouts), how deep to plant the seed, any special treatment of the seed prior to planting, how far apart to space the seed, when/how to thin the emerging seedlings and days to harvest if it is an edible plant.  There is a longer description of the most desirable traits of the plant and which season it thrives in.  If a flower seed, it will give timing of flowering and height of the plant.   There will also be a date that the seed was packed for and a "sell by" date.  Unless you store in the refrigerator, germination rates dramatically decline after the first year and this varies by plant seed type.  I keep my seeds in the refrigerator in ziplock bags to keep them viable.  I have seeds that are over 10 years old and still have great germination rates.
Burpee's seed packet front even has the pot symbol for those that do well in  containers
Key attributes I am looking for to improve the productivity in my garden, I look for on the descriptors on the back.  Examples-if I want to maximize the harvest I get from a pepper plant, I will look for words like "prolific", "produces until frost", "continuous harvest".  If I am having a disease problem in my humid summer garden, I will look for words of "disease resistant", "powdery mildew resistant", "blight resistant" or whatever disease issue I am having.  For the best summer producers, look for terms like heat tolerant, thrives in hot temperatures, drought tolerant.  For the best cold season crops, look for terms like "winter hardy", "frost tolerant", etc.  If you want to harvest tomatoes all at once, look for the description "determinant".

With the crazy heat waves we are having now, I look for tomato varieties that do well in extreme heat.  Typical tomato plants produce sterile flowers at when temperatures are averaging 85F.  I'm going to buy a couple of new to me varieties that thrive in heat.  

For even more information about a particular variety, check on the seed company's web site or seed catalog.  When I first started gardening, I poured over Territorial Seed catalog.  Their catalogs have a detailed planting and growing guide for each family of vegetable seeds they offer.  Even now if a crop isn't doing the best, I will go back and look at all the great growing information that they have for every crop they sell seeds for.

I do look for varieties that have disease or pest resistance that I have experienced in my garden.  Squash bugs are a big problem in our area so I look for varieties that say they are squash bug resistant to try in my garden.  For example, I used to grow regular zucchini but they would also get ate up and diseased from squash bugs.  Now, I grow Trombetta squash that is not as attractive to squash bugs nor succumbs to disease.  

If you are growing flowers, what may be a strength for a vegetable can be a liability for a flower.  "Prolific" means it produces a lot which you typically want in a vegetable but in a flower that can be synonymous with "invasive".  A flowers that "self sows" means it produces many seeds that turn into more plants which can end up being invasive in your flower bed.  Think through what the descriptions mean for your bed and if it is a positive attribute or something you don't want to get started in your garden.

I use Johnny's Seeds web site for for their seed starting date calculator to plan out when to start my seeds indoors.  You plug in your last frost date and it spits out the dates for you on when to plant your seeds.  Baker Heirloom Seed puts out an enormous annual catalog that dives into the history and growing of different crops that I look forward to getting and reading every year.  They have a huge selection of all kinds of unusual varieties.  I try new varieties every year, along with the standbys that grow exceptionally well in my garden and garden conditions. 

Sunday, November 16, 2025

Reflections on the 2025 garden and the 2026 garden plan

Sunday, November 16, 2025

Late fall is an ideal time to reflect on the spring and summer gardening season and capture what went well, what didn't and what you want to do for your garden next year while the garden season is fresh in the mind.  I like to capture what varieties did well, what I planted too much or too little of, including the specific names before I forget.  I am forever trying to make the garden more productive and enjoyable.  I also like to make notes of what I want to learn more about over the winter.   

Here are my reflections on this year's garden............

Overall
In general, the garden did well in the spring, seed starting for spring and summer went well, was typical timing for producing summer veggies, and my fall seed starting struggled.  We actually had a real spring for the fifth year in a row.  This year, we had a crazy warm up at the end of winter, then back to chilly temperatures and a slow increase back to normal temperatures in June.  Late summer and fall had record heat that affected tomato production and my fall seed starting.

I went on the vole offensive this year and planted daffodils, marigolds and creeping thyme around all of my beds.  This did seem to help.  I just transplanted creeping thyme from our back garage bed to the berry bed in the spots the spring planted thyme did not make it.  Fall is a good time to plant perennials, including herbs.

I started a couple hundred creeping thyme and lavender plants from seed as well as several perennial flowers for the new front landscaping flower bed.  Of course, I always put edibles in my flower beds.  I think they are beautiful mixed in with flowers and also give you lots of nutritious tasty food to eat.

I was also able to use the creeping thyme plants and daffodil bulbs to put around the 2 new back beds and any empty spots in the existing beds in early spring.

I planted marigolds around all the beds as a vole and deer deterrent.  They're pretty and cold hardy to boot.  They really shine from a distance.

In the new back berry bed around the telephone pole, I planted Yard Long beans, Christmas Speckles lima beans, 1500 Year Old pole bean and winged beans to go up the guide wires and a Trombetta squash to meander under the berry bushes.  I didn't have enough compost to cover this bed until middle of the summer.  The berry bushes produced very little, had no winged beans, Christmas Speckles  or 1500 Year Old pole beans and the Yard Long beans took off in late summer.  The Yard Long beans were super productive so even with a short production window, I got all we need for the rest of the year.  Next season, I expect that everything will do much better in this bed with another round of compost and fertilizer.  Plus it takes a couple of winters for perennials to develop their root systems to support upward growth. 

I planted tomatoes, basil, cucumber, okra, sweet peppers, winter squash, marjoram in the basement bed along with cockscomb and marigolds.  I put peppers and eggplant in pots with snow peas around the bed behind the garage, as far into the sun as possible.  I always put petunias in each pot to add color.

I had many volunteer Blue Feather lettuce, Malabar spinach, Heavenly Blue morning glory, Red Hummingbird vine, basil, celosias, cock's comb, carrots, and Egyptian walking onions come up.  I grew all my lettuce, celery, spinach, cultivated dandelions, dill, parsley, chard, and sorrel in my larger self-watering pots.  

There were high points and not so great turn outs for the season.  Just your typical edible garden season!  

The good
  The lettuce, cultivated dandelions, bay laurel, sorrel, Egyptian walking onions, basil, celery, eggplant (Rosa and Turkish Orange), garlic chives, Japanese Mountain Spinach chard, Anaheim peppers, all but the banana sweet peppers and a Better Boy container tomato did very well.  Greens were the standouts in the spring.  The tomatoes planted upside down in 5 gallon buckets in the summer garden did fantastic from July into mid August but the extreme heat thereafter really throttled back production.  For some reason, the bucket planted and garden Cherokee Purple tomatoes died out early in the season.

In the volunteer department, Red Malabar spinach, Heavenly Blue morning glory, Husk Cherry, Giant Blue Feather lettuce, Blue Spice basil, celosia, Hummingbird vine and zinnias were prolific.  The volunteer Cock's Comb flowers had enormous flower heads.

For flowers I planted, almost all of the lavender plants survived and bloomed, the marigolds grew huge and their color was a vibrant addition to the beds, Snow on the Mountain really stood out.  It is a prolific self seeder so I picked up as many seeds as I could find and scattered them on a bank that is hard to mow along with celosia and zinnia seeds.  Come spring, I'll transplant natives onto the bank as well.

For the herbs I planted, sage including the multi colored varieties really did well, Cardinal and Genovese basil did extremely well this year.  Rosemary did pretty well.  Marjoram looked healthy but stayed small.  Butterfly papalo grew huge.  It is a super, heat loving substitute for cilantro.  It grew to about 7' tall.  I will definitely grow again but only need one plant and will put it in a different location since it is so tall.  The Red Roselle Hibiscus plants grew to over 6' tall and 6' wide.  They produced hundreds of calyxes in late fall.

The other plants that did well were Prescott Fond Blanc melon (prolific and tastes like cantelope),  spring greens, Egyptian walking onions, Dragon's Tail radish, newly planted and existing creeping thyme, Tricked You jalapeƱo plant was prolific as was the Habanado sweet pepper plants and Poblano chili powder peppers, and the Jerusalem artichoke plants grew to over 7' tall in their first year.

I got enough sweet and chili peppers frozen that I won't need to plant them for preserving next year.

Overall, I think I did a pretty good job of not overplanting.  I did have more sweet peppers than I needed but that was because I had leftover plants from a class I gave.  There are so many cool things you can grow it is hard to not want to try lots of new things!  The 2 new things I tried this year that will now be part of my yearly plan was Prescott Fond Blanc melon and Butterfly papalo as a substitute for cilantro.

We found a chemical that does kill Bermuda grass so we sprayed around most of the beds.  Will do the rest next summer.  You have to spray during the summer when Bermuda grass is active.

The okay
My Bush Champion cucumber, Red Burgundy okra, volunteer New Zealand spinach, rosemary, sweet Banana pepper, Trombetta zucchini, garlic, shallots, Giant Leaf mustard, Tamarillo, carrots, Sweet William flowers, Alpine strawberries and artichokes all did okay this year.  

The cucumber plant gave all I needed for salads and canning pickles up into August.  Okra started producing in August and gave all I needed for freezing.  It took a long time for the Trombetta to start producing but gave fruits until frost.   

I planted 2 artichoke plants and 4 Alpine strawberry plants.  Both the artichoke plants survived and one gave a flower.  I should have cut it because it really stressed the plant.  It did survive, though, so next year I should get flowers/fruits off both plants.  Only 2 of the Alpine Strawberry plants survived and they produced berries from late summer all the way through fall.

The shallots and garlic did well enough that I can separate the cloves and replant the largest.  I will have enough garlic cloves to pickle some.

The goji berry and Aronia bushes did decent this year.  I expect they will really go to town next year as it will be their second year in the garden.  The dwarf Tamarillo tree did not produce an abundance of fruits and the flavor was interesting.  I will bring the plant in this winter as it is a tropical but I won't be planting more of them.

I planted Sweet William flowers around the borders of the beds with marigolds.  The marigolds grew so large they grew over the Sweet William.  The Sweet William plants did well and flowered all season but just weren't as visible as the marigolds.  Sweet William is a tender perennial so I will not replace any that don't make it through the winter.  I will replant marigolds since they are very heat tolerant, do very well in my garden, deter deer and voles, and are real show stoppers covered in their yellow and orange flowers.  Since they grow so large, I will plant half as many and spaced twice as far apart as this year.

The bad
The butternut and Ayote Green winter squash and Lemon Drop watermelon didn't produce any fruits.  Only got a handful of berries from the blackberry bushes, raspberry bushes, new strawberry bed and blueberry bushes. 

The snow peas, winged beans only gave a few pods.  The potatoes were tiny and full of holes.  I was using potato boxes and should have removed the sides when I planted them but did not take the time.

My sweet potato vines were doing fantastic until a fawn discovered that it loved the leaves and ate it to the ground several times.

My 1500 Year Old pole bean and Christmas Speckles lima bean vines barely grew and gave no pods.  They were planted in the new bed that I didn't have compost for until late summer.  Will try again next year.

The perennial potato onions and bulbing onions did not grow much.  I'll leave them to see if they get bigger over the winter.

I did not get any Love Lies Bleeding amaranth volunteers this year and the Giant Golden amaranth I planted died out.  So did the chervil, Hilton Chinese cabbage, orach and pink celery.  Only had one Chinese Bicolor Spinach amaranth volunteer in a pot and it did well.

I did sow Hilton Chinese cabbage again for fall.  They are super cold hardy and tasty in salads.

I got the worst tomato harvest ever.  I didn't plant a huge number as I had all the sauce I needed from last year's crop.  Between the frozen left from last year and what we froze from this year, there should be enough in the freezer to last until next summer.  The extreme heat we had this summer just stopped all fruiting.  When temperatures stay in the mid to upper 90's, tomato flowers become sterile and won't product any fruits.  This is the last year we will be doing the upside down buckets.  Next year, we will put all the plants into the ground.  Since the ground stays cooler than the buckets, it should help production with the summers we are now having. 

Winter learning 
Will research how to maximize berry bush and strawberry bed production.   Will scour the seed catalogs for other small fruits I can grow in the garden.  I put berries on my morning yogurt so want to have enough that I grow to eat them year round. 

Next year's garden
I just built a small stone retaining wall in the back garage bed.  Today I will add chicken bedding and leaf mulch to add fertility.  I hope this will provide the tilth and nutrition needed for onions and carrots that did not do the best back there this year.  Plus, it will make the bed more level.
 
Here is my garden plan for next year:
Purple Yard Long pole beans, 1500 Year Old bean vine and Christmas speckles lima beans on separate guide wires.  Plant with Hummingbird vine and Red Malabar spinach?
Urizun Japanese winged bean in a pot as it loves the heat
Red Burgundy okra (2 in the garden bed)
10 tomato plants-large paste (Italian Red Pear), slicers (Cherokee Purple and an orange/yellow), a small fruit (Chocolate Pear), a storage tomato (tbd), Brandywine and an early variety like Rubee Dawn
3 eggplant-AO Daimura, Antigua or Rotanda Bianca or Rosa, Shiromaru or Amadeo (in pot)
1 bush cucumber, 1 vining cucumber (in garden bed)
1 summer squash-Trombetta since it is resistant to vine borer, disease and squash bugs
2 winter squash-Butternut and fun other one like Ayote or warted
Perennial onions-potato onion type and Egyptian Walking onion sweet and cooking varieties
Hardneck garlic, Elephant garlic and shallots
Potatoes in the potato boxes (get seed potatoes from store and purple perennial potatoes from actual seed)
Snow peas in pots with peppers and eggplants
Dragon Tail radish in pot or garden by sprouting broccoli
Hilton Chinese cabbage (2 plants)
New Zealand in pot (1)
Lettuce (Royal Oakleaf, Grand Rapids, Butter King, Bronze Beauty, Celtic, Forellenschluss, Giant Blue Feather, Yedikule, Red Sails, Romaine) and spinach in pots
Greens that stay sweet in summer-Orach, Amaranth, Chard-Perpetual Spinach and Fordhook, Chinese Multicolor Spinach, Purple Stardust Iceplant, Komatsuna, Giant Leaf mustard
Herbs-Dill, Basil (Nunum, Genovese, Cardinal), Papalo (cilantro substitute), Lion's Ear, Rosemary (try a couple new "hardy" varieties), Chervil.  Parsley, sage, pink celery and marjoram if they don't survive the winter.
Sweet pepper plants for fresh eating (1 bell and 1 snacker).  Overwintering Chiltepin, Jigsaw and Baklouti hot pepper plants and Habanada sweet pepper plants are overwintering indoors.
Cantaloupe-Tigger melon or Prescott Fond Blanc
Small fruits-Tamarillo overwintering indoors, Husk Cherry volunteers, restart 2 Alpine Strawberry varieties, others?
Flowers-zinnias, alyssum, marigolds, Cock's Comb, peach hollyhocks, blue morning glory, Love Lies Bleeding, Moonflower?, Others?


Saturday, November 15, 2025

What survived the hard freeze

Fall sunrise
Saturday, November 15, 2025

Last week we had 2 nights in a row in the mid 20's.  Anything thing below 28 F is considered a hard freeze.  So what survived in the garden and what's next for continued harvests through winter.  

The first hard freezes of the fall killed the edibles and ornamentals that hail from tropical regions like Yard Long beans, eggplant, basil, Malabar spinach, sweet potatoes, zinnias, celosias, amaranths, heat tolerant lettuce, potted tomatoes and peppers, Jerusalem artichokes, red roselle hibiscus, squash, American groundnut, okra, tarragon.

What's still green in the garden beds are marigolds, Sweet William, petunias, lavender, mums, day lilies, lemon balm, chives, onions, cold tolerant lettuce, kale, chard, parsley, celery, carrots, chicory, mustard greens, artichoke plants, wolf berry bush, Aronia bush, strawberry plants, blackberry and raspberry bushes, most of the Mediterranean herbs like sage, marjoram, thyme, oregano, rosemary.

To maximize the winter harvests, I got out my portable green house covers for my potted greens and snow peas.  The best place to locate your plants and greenhouse is close to a wall and on the south side of the house in full sun.  Putting the greenhouse against the house or other structure will help keep the temperatures warmer for your plants.  I also use gallon jugs of water that I put around the pots inside the cover to help moderate the temperatures.  Spray painting the jugs protects the plastic from sun degradation.  Extend the season with protection for plants  
My winter pots and Earthboxes contain kale, celery, French dandelion, lettuce, sorrel, sprouting broccoli, parsley, chard and arugula.  I should be able to have fresh greens and snow peas all winter long using these.
Portable greenhouse
The biggest risk with a greenhouse?  Overheating!  The sun’s rays are quite hot on a cloudless day.  I open the vent on my greenhouses when it is sunny and in the 30’s.  I will unzip the front door flap when it gets into the 40’s.   In the 50’s, the cold crops really don’t need any protection.  

The crops that do well in early spring are the ones that do well over the winter in a greenhouse.  Cold crops I like to grow under cover are arugula, broccoli, cabbage, celery, chard, cilantro, corn salad, kale, lettuce, mustard greens, parsley, peas, sorrel, spinach, parsley, cultivated dandelions.  Cold season crops for your edible garden

Sunday, November 9, 2025

The winter edible garden

4 season onions

 Sunday, November 9, 2025

The winter garden can provide food all the way to spring.  There are five strategies to having edibles through the winter months.  One is to plant early enough to be at full size by first of November.  The second is to leverage protection like row covers, portable greenhouses, and cold frames.  The third is to choose varieties that are winter hardy.  The fourth is to grow edibles indoors.  The fifth strategy is to grow varieties during the warmer months that you can easily store all winter.  You can do any one of the five or do all of them. 

If your want to ramp up the flavor and nutrient value of your winter meals, consider planting the season’s last garden using quick-growing crops such as greens, cabbage, and radishes. It’s not too late to get plants in the ground for fall and winter harvests as late as early October and definitely if you live where winters are mild. In fact, many plants get sweeter in chilly weather, and some hardy plants can be pulled right out of the snow for fresh eating like carrots and onions.

If the thought of fresh-picked salads and hearty, nutritious sautƩed greens on your winter table appeals to you, use the information below to sow your winter garden and enjoy homegrown flavor, nutritious produce this winter.

In late summer and early fall if you haven’t already started seeds for transplanting, seek out transplants from garden centers.  The ornamental kale and cabbage for sale are not only pretty, but also edible!  Check well-stocked local stores for sturdy, healthy-looking plants. 

Make sure to add a scoop of finished compost to planting holes and organic fertilizer to add nutrients to soil that may be depleted after the summer harvest and less available due to the chilly temperatures.  Espoma is readily available at most big box and hardware stores.  For greens type veggies, the general vegetable garden fertilizer is a good choice.

Choose the Right Varieties
In addition to choosing the right plants for cold-weather harvests, you can also increase winter harvests by planting specific varieties. Look for varieties marketed as: winter-hardy, frost tolerant, overwintering, for every season, year-round, remarkably cold hardy, etc. 

Because daylight hours are getting shorter in the fall, you will need to add about 2 weeks to the “Days to Harvest” your seed packet gives as the seed packet dates are based on spring planting.  Plants grow slower in fall because the days are getting shorter instead of longer. 

The list below starts with the produce that will be ready for harvesting the quickest.  You will want to get the slowest growers (at the bottom of this list) in the ground in August; you may be able to continue sowing seeds of some of the fastest crops into October or beyond.   If they don't sprout now, there is a good chance they will sprout in the spring when the conditions are right.  Those that are planted as transplants can be ready 2-3 weeks sooner than the dates listed below. 

If sowing seeds, be sure to keep the soil moist.  Seeds sown in the fall have the same needs as seeds sown in the spring.  Outdoor seed starting tips  If you are starting your seeds indoors, you will have to harden the seedlings before planting for the colder temperatures outdoors.  "Hardening off" seedlings 

17 Varieties for Winter Gardening
Ready for harvest in: 3 to 9 weeks
Can survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: For small and fast maturing radishes, broadcast seed directly in beds, or use chicken wire as a guide to space seeds 1 inch apart. Harvest after a few weeks in the ground and before the bulb becomes too hot and fibrous. You can sow seeds once a week for continuous harvests.
2-Turnips  All about turnips
Ready for harvest in: 5 to 10 weeks
Can survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Harvest when roots are mature, but before they become bitter. A “neck” will begin to form when the root has reached maximum size, and quality will decline as the neck elongates.
3-Spinach and other hardy greens   Grow spinach-a super nutritious, easy green
Ready for harvest in: 6 to 7 weeks
Can survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Transplant seedlings about 6 weeks before first frost. Harvest the leaves around the outside of the plant; always leaving 5 leaves on each plant.  This will let you harvest for weeks from the same plants.  Other hardy greens include miner's lettuce, corn salad, sorrel, arugula, salad burnet.
4-Winter hardy greens  Fall and winter greens
Ready for harvest in: 6 to 7 weeks
Can survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Sow seeds directly into the garden or pot.  Harvest the leaves around the outside of the plant; always leaving 5 leaves on each plant.  This will let you harvest for weeks from the same plants.  Winter hardy greens include miner's lettuce, corn salad, sorrel, arugula, salad burnet, cultivated dandelions.
Ready for harvest in: 6 to 12 weeks for leaf lettuce; 11 to 13 weeks for head lettuce
Can survive frost: Yes (depending on variety-try Winter Density, Rouge diver, No Name Red Leaf, Arctic King, Continuity, Salad Bowl, Mottistone to name a few.  
Fall planting notes: Keep transplants indoors until soil cools. Lettuce seeds won't germinate in hot soil temperatures, above 75-80F.  You can also broadcast seeds in cool soil every two weeks for a continuous harvest. I like starting my seeds in a pot in a cool area and then transplant into the garden.  Harvest in early morning for best taste and structure.  
Ready for harvest in: 6 to 8 weeks
Can survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: I like getting the transplant pots with several colors; then separate and plant into the garden. Harvest sequentially as leaves mature, 1 to 2 outer stalks per plant; be sure to leave at least 5 significant inner stalks per plant for continuous harvesting.
Ready for harvest in: 7 to 8 weeks
Can survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Plant seedlings deep, leaving 1 to 3 leaves above soil. Harvest as soon as leaves begin to become dull/less green and bulbs stop increasing in size.
Ready for harvest in: 7 to 16 weeks, depending on variety
Can survive frost: Yes (the denser varieties are the most hardy)
Fall planting notes: Plant seedlings deep, leaving 1 to 3 leaves above soil. Harvest at peak size and succulence, before leaves begin to yellow and split, and before plants go to seed.
Ready for harvest in: 6 to 9 weeks
Can survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Plant seedlings deep, leaving 1 to 3 leaves above soil. Harvest sequentially as leaves mature.
Ready for harvest in: 8 to 9 weeks
Can survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Plant seedlings deep, leaving 1 to 3 leaves above soil. Heads grow fast. Harvest before flowering begins. May produce secondary heads. Harvest edible leaves, too — they are even more nutritious than the buds.  I love the leaves in salads.
Ready for harvest in: 8 to 11 weeks
Survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Carrots don't appreciate being transplanted.  Sow directly in the garden or pot.  You can use the thinnings as tasty baby carrots and salad additions. If you do start in a pot to transplant, handle the transplant carefully and make sure its main root is pointing straight down when transplanted.  Harvest mature roots at maximum diameter while they are still sweet. 
Ready for harvest in: 8 to 12 weeks
Survive frost: Light
Fall planting notes: Plant seedlings deep, leaving 1 to 3 leaves above soil. Cauliflower heads often develops in just a few days. Harvest at full size, before it begins to yellow.  Making sure the head is covered by the leaves keeps the head a nice white.
13-Brussels Sprouts  Growing Brussel sprouts
Ready for harvest in: 11 to 13 weeks
Survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Grows best in very fertile soil. Plant seedlings deep, leaving 1 to 3 leaves above soil. When a node begins to grow a bulge out of the stalk to form a sprout, remove the leaf just below it to optimize growth. Harvest when sprouts are at maximum plumpness, before outer leaves become fibrous and sprouts becomes bitter.  Sprouts can be harvested well into winter.  
Ready for harvest in: 10 to 13 weeks
Survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Transplant when seedlings are about 3 inches tall or sow directly in the garden. Choose best seedlings (healthy and vibrant green) to transplant. Harvest outer stalks carefully, leaving 3 to 5 large stalks per plant for continuous harvests.
Ready for harvest in: 12 weeks
Survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Plant seedlings deep, leaving 1 to 3 leaves above soil. Harvest outer leaves to leave inner leaves to continue growing.  In mild climates, collards can be harvested all winter long.  Baby leaves are good in salads, larger leaves are great steamed or cooked.
Ready for harvest in: Next spring for mature onions, 6 weeks for green onions
Survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Onions, leeks and shallots like loose, rich soil.  Be sure to plant varieties for the length of daylight your zone has in the summer.  It is the number of daylight hours that stimulates the onion to form bulbs.  In our lower Midwest garden, we need intermediate onion types.  Don't be tempted to grow Vidalias in Minnesota; they just won't make bulbs.
17-Overwintering Fava Beans and Peas  Grow a European favorite-the fava or broad bean
Ready for harvest in: 4 weeks-Next spring
Survive frost: Yes
Fall planting notes: Inoculate the seeds to get the nitrogen nodules that support more vigorous growth and nitrogen in the soil.  There are snow peas that are ready to harvest in just 30 days.

Now, don't forget you can harvest many Mediterranean herbs all winter as they are perennials.  Start a kitchen herb garden! 

How Low Can You Go?
Depending on where you live, you may be able to get a decent vegetable harvest even through winter with protection.  Many folks grow edibles through the winter in Zone 3 with some type of cover.  Several varieties will grow well into the snowy months, and a good frost sweetens many by forcing the plants to make more frost-protecting sugars.

Can Survive Hard Freeze with No Protection/Cover
• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Cabbage, regular
• Carrots
• Chard
• Collards
• Fava beans
• Kale
• Kohlrabi
• Lettuce (depending on variety-look for winter hardy) 
• Onions, leeks, and shallots
• Overwintering peas
• Parsley
• Radishes
• Spinach
• Turnips
• Winter hardy and perennial greens  Perennial veggies in the Midwest garden

Harvest Longer
In fall, promote faster growth by packing plants a bit more tightly than you might normally do. You can extend your growing season by adding thick layers of mulch around plants, or by using season-extending techniques such as row covers. When nights get chilly, protect plants by covering them with a cloth or blanket, portable greenhouse or cold frame.  Extend the season with protection for plants

If you aren't interested in outdoor cold season gardening, you can still grow some of your food indoors.  What edibles can you grow indoors? 

In late fall when the first freeze is forecast, I bring in my citrus, potted hot pepper plants, my bay tree, moringa tree, potted basil plants and Red Malabar spinach to overwinter.  I also harvest from them until spring when I take them back outside.  You can grow other herbs and sprouts from seed, too.

The fifth strategy is to grow edibles that can be easily canned, frozen or stored.  For those that don't have freezer space, here is a list of crops that can be stored without an appliance.  If you didn't include these in this season's gardening season, add them to the list for next year.  24 No Tech Storage Fruits and Vegetables