Sunday, November 30, 2025

What to start in the December garden

Newly sprouted greens inside portable greenhouse
Sunday, November 29, 2025 

You can still plant outdoors for the edible garden in December.  What you are planting in December may not germinate quickly.  Growth will restart in mid January when daylight hours get back to 10 hours.  Keep your edibles under cover to encourage germination and growth and to extend the harvest all the way through to spring.  
What is a four season garden?
You can garden year round in small space
Planning for a four season garden

This month you can sow more greens, carrots, and herbs in the greenhouse.  You can also transplant trees and shrubs and even spring bulbs as long as the soil is workable.   Midwest Perennial Vegetable Garden

Here are the crops you can start outdoors and indoors in the December Midwest edible garden:

December seeds outdoors
Austrian winter peas-will sprout in early spring
Broad beans-will sprout when conditions are right
Spinach seeds-will sprout in late winter/early spring
Snow peas-will sprout in early spring

December seeds under cover
Will sprout under cover:
Arugula
Sprouting Broccoli
Carrots
Celery
Corn salad
Endive
Escarole
Frisee
Lettuce, Winter Hardy types
Mustard and Mustard Greens
Parsley and Parsley Root
Pak choi
Austrian and Snow Peas
Radicchio
Scallions
Sorrel
Spinach
Swiss Chard

December transplants
Trees and bushes until ground freezes

December seeds indoors
All kinds of microgreens
Onion seeds-end of month
Flowers-Dephinium, Dianthus, Viola end of month
Stratify native flowers in refrigerator or outdoors

Look for cold hardy varieties when planting for winter growing and harvests.  You will be surprised to harvest all through the winter months things like greens, onions, Austrian peas, carrots, and cabbage when you get them started in the fall.  You can also extend the harvest by looking for the same crop with different days to harvest timing so that they mature at different times.  For those you are seeding now, they will provide your late winter and early spring harvests.  

 Winter planted crops take longer to sprout and grow than they do in the spring.  It's because the days are getting shorter rather than longer and the temperatures are falling.  Winter solstice is the shortest day of the year on December 21, so daylight hours are still getting shorter until then.  Just be patient, the seeds will sprout when conditions are right.  Growth is very slow now as the daylight hours are less than 10 and temperatures are cold.  In my area, we will get back to 10 hours of daylight on January 19.  Growth will pick up in late January.  

To keep plants producing, keep them covered.  The biggest risk with covers is the plants overheating.  Full sun can raise the temperatures by 50 degrees.  Keep this in mind and give ventilation when the temperatures are getting up into the 50's with nice sunshine.
Window open on portable greenhouse
Window open on portable greenhouse
If you are using a row cover, they should be in place now.  I put mine in place when the temperatures are getting into the low 20's at night.  Your plants are safe from overheating as long as the temperatures don't get into the upper 50's with the full sun.  When temperatures are that warm, just open the ends of the row cover and close back up when the temperatures are forecasted back into the 20's or colder.

The same goes for greenhouses. I have my edible greens covered by my portable greenhouse with the "windows" open to vent when it gets into the 50's.  You can use cover to extend the harvest all the way to next spring.  Extend the season with protection for plants  Homegrown, organic salads in a Midwest winter 

Saturday, November 29, 2025

December 2025 Edible Garden Planner

Early December garden; chard in the foreground, herbs in the background
November 29, 2025

December is when many stick to the indoors and staying warm.  When winter arrives, it may appear that everything is dead outside, but there is still life in the garden.  In the beds, kale, cabbage, salad burnet, sorrel, rosemary, oregano, garlic, onions, lettuce, leeks, chard, dill, celery, sage, carrots, broccoli, spinach are all still green in December.  October planted garlic is sprouting.  Under cover, greens, celery, parsley and lettuce are growing.

This fall had weeks of above average temperatures with below normal for rainfall.  We had our first killing at the beginning of November.  We brought all my overwintering tropicals, bay tree, moringa tree, basil, aloe vera and citrus tree a couple of weeks ago.  I'll bring in the rest of the edibles, pepper plants, tomato plants and dwarf tamarillo today or tomorrow as it's calling for the low in the 20's this week.  The pepper plants will continue to produce for a few more weeks.  It will keep its leaves and start producing again in February.  The tomatoes and tamarillo are an experiment to see if they survive indoors.   

Outdoors, fresh herbs, onions, kale, chard, lettuce and broccoli are just steps away from the back door, the portable green houses are packed with greens.  The citrange I planted outdoors last fall died back to the roots.  The root stock resprouted in the spring.  I'll see if it survives this winter.

Most Mediterranean herbs are perennials so you get to enjoy them practically year round.  You can also grow many herbs indoors as well like chives, oregano, rosemary, parsley, chervil, and basil.  Rosemary, basil and bay are good ones to dig up and bring indoors to guarantee survival through the winter.  Just place your potted herbs in a sunny window.  I keep my bay tree in a pot.  I have put it in the basement with a grow light but this year I put it upstairs in a south facing window.  My bay tree is over 9 feet tall after 9 years in a pot. 
If you are using a greenhouse or row cover, your kale, celery, mustard, lettuce, chard, spinach, cabbage, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, sprouting broccoli will be happy all winter.  They will not grow much until sunlight gets back to 10 hours per day in late January, but you can still harvest from them right now.  Be sure on sunny, warm days to pop the top on your covers or you will scorch your greens.  It can get 50 degrees warmer inside a greenhouse on a sunny day than the actual temperature outside.  Do check to make sure your pots in the greenhouse have enough moisture.  Open when it is warm to check, water and harvest.  If kept covered, little moisture escapes so there is not much watering that needs to be done over the winter.  While plants are actively growing, fertilize every couple of weeks.  
Cultivated dandelion in a pot
All cold crops are at their sweetest during the cold weather.  Frost brings out the sugars in cold crops.  Hardy greens like chard, kale, spinach, mustard greens, cultivated dandelion greens, pea shoots and collard greens make great salads and are tasty steamed or braised.  You can still sow seeds in December to get a head start on the spring garden.  What to plant in the December edible garden 

Make sure if you have any potted veggies to put them on the ground if they are on coasters to keep them warmer during the winter.  The ideal location is in full sun and a sheltered area on the south side of the house to extend their growing time.  Placing straw bales around them or mounding mulch provides extra protection.  Moving them up against the wall on the south side does double duty-southern exposure gets the most sun and warmth and the wall radiates its warmth.  Pots left exposed on all sides will be zone colder than the ones planted in the ground.  If you are in Zone 7, be sure that plants left in pots are hardy to at least Zone 6 if you want them to come back in the spring.  If they are not, put under cover, mulch around them or bring into the garage or basement for the winter.
How to extend the harvest after a hard freeze 

Veggies like your favorite tomato, pepper, eggplant, or celery that you potted and moved indoors will continue to produce indoors if provided warmth and enough sunlight.  My Chiptelin pepper is one I bring in every year.  I have brought my Jigsaw pepper indoors last winter and will again this week.  I am bringing in a small sweet pepper plant Habanada to see how it overwinters indoors.   I will put them in my sunroom.  I may need to add supplemental lighting as we have triple pane windows so they keep most rays from getting through the glass.  

Your indoor and outdoor plants will still need to be fertilized at about half the rate as during the growing season.  A liquid fertilizer every two weeks would be plenty.  I used blood meal to provide nitrogen for my greens when I planted them in the portable greenhouses.

Be sure to spray your edible garden beds with deer repellant, sooner rather than later.  The deer and rabbits will be getting hungry and your edible garden will look like a feast to them!  If you keep them from getting into the garden the first time, it is much easier to deter them after the fact.  Quick tip-how I keep the deer away
Chives in front, sage and rosemary in back
In addition to the greens, onions and fresh herbs fresh from the garden, we will be eating the extras I put up over the summer and fall.  I have green beans, okra, tomatoes, pesto, winter squash, sweet peppers and hot peppers in the freezer.  Canned tomato sauce, hot peppers, pickles and pickle relish in the pantry.  I have dried onions, homemade chili powder and herbs for seasoning dishes.

If you don't have much freezer space but want to grow what you can preserve without freezing, check out this blog for your garden this next year 21 no tech storage crops.

If you weren't able to put in your own garden this year or have enough to put up for the cold months, buying local is a good option.  Many farmers markets will open up again right before Christmas.  You can also look up local farms at www.localharvest.org  If you want to support your local farmer and get fresh produce come spring, buying a share from a local farmer is an excellent option.  It's called CSA (community supported agriculture).  You buy a share now and then get a weekly allotment of fresh produce when gardens start producing again in the spring.

Before I started our own edible garden, we joined a CSA.  It was great.  We got lots of super fresh produce, our weekly grocery bill was significantly reduced as our meals were planned around the vegetables, and it was an adventure getting to try new recipes with veggies we had never ate before.  
Eat well, be healthy

A CSA shows you what grows well in your area.  You can find out the varieties you like and when they come into season.  You can even save the seeds from the varieties that you want to grow in your future garden if you partner with an organic CSA that grows open pollinated and heirloom vegetables and fruits.
What do the terms GMO, natural, heirloom, organic, hybrid really mean?

To advertise as “organic” you have to be certified.  Many farmers cannot afford to do this.  Some farmers participate in the "Certified Naturally Grown" program.  This is less expensive than USDA organic, but also relies on inspections by other CNG farmers, non-CNG farmers, extension agents, master gardeners and customers instead of USDA certified agents.  If you are interested in produce grown without pesticides, herbicides or other chemicals, ask the farmer if she uses organic practices.  Go visit them to see the garden for yourself before you commit.  You can also check out reviews on line. 

Many sell out by January so don’t delay if you want to join!
Tarragon, thyme, sage, rosemary and chives
Winter is time to savor the fresh herbs from the garden along with what you have preserved, browsing for canning ideas, and planning next year's garden.  A potential Christmas meal using what is growing in the garden in December, Jazz up the Christmas feast with herbs from the garden  Consider making herb mixes and herbal salts to give to family and friends as Christmas gifts.  Make your own "Herbes de Provence"   Using herbs, flowers and fruit for flavored sugars and salts   If you had a bumper canning season, consider giving extras as Christmas gifts too or to your local food panty.

I have used Christmas break in the past as the time to finalize my garden plan for the spring.  Now that I am retired, I do it a little earlier.  I look back on my notes from last year's edible garden and this year's seed catalogs to decide what new varieties to add to my standbys.  Here is my 2025 garden reflections and plans for 2026.

Seed catalogs have started arriving and there are tons to look at on the internet that you can start ordering for your spring garden.  For tips on choosing seed catalogs to order from:   New seed catalogs are here! 

Sunday, November 23, 2025

What's happening in the late November edible garden

Lavender in late fall
Sunday, November 23, 2025

We have had a couple of hard freezes in the first week of November.  Since then we have had chilly days and days in the 70's.  Another hard freeze is forecasted for this week and highs in the 40's.  Harvests in the garden are greens, herbs, and onions.  The summer crops are done until next year.

I stripped all the fruits off the plants before our hard freeze at the beginning of the month and put the greenhouse covers over my cool season loving greens.  Usually with a cover, the greens produce all the way through to spring.  We've put the greens on the basement patio which is on the northeast side.  I re-opened the covers when it got so warm.  After the 60's in the next couple of days, I'll put the covers back on to encourage growth.

We took all the tropicals at the beginning of the month except for the lantana and jasmine tree.  They'll be coming in later this week.  I use a grow light over them so they get enough light to survive the winter.  I do have a couple of tomatoes and peppers I'll bring into the sunroom to overwinter.  We put triple pane windows in our house to make it more energy efficient; it also keeps more daylight from entering.  I may have to add daylight bulbs in the sunroom too.

The onions, oregano, thyme and mint will stay green without cover over the winter.

Inside, I cleared out most the frozen tomatoes from last year and made tomato sauce.  Had 9 quarts of frozen tomatoes that I used another 6 pints of frozen sweet peppers along with 6 bay leaves and 8 garlic cloves to make into 12 pints of sauce.  Our tomato harvest was much smaller this year because of the prolonged heat waves we had in the upper 90's.  And since we had so many tomatoes last year, I did not plant a late crop to pick up production like I usually do.  Next year, I will because we will need fresh tomatoes to freeze.  I'll also look for more high heat tolerant varieties to try next summer as it looks like these type of heat waves are here to stay.

We picked up our deer from the processor yesterday.  I always make sauce before we have to load the freezer back up with venison.  Plus, I go through everything we have in the freezer to know what we need to have the deer processed into and how much veggies are left to determine what I need to plant in next year's garden.

I have already done my garden review of this season and an initial cut on what to grow next season.  I started getting seed catalogs this week.  I'll look through them to tweak the plan and order seeds.  I'll start seeds indoors in late February or March. 

The only lingering garden chore is to plant garlic and shallots.  I think I'll order a dwarf mulberry tree.  They start producing a ton of fruit in 2-3 years.  I'll also look for other annual fruits to try next year to fill the gap.

If using a greenhouse this winter, remember the biggest killer of veggies in greenhouses?  Getting too hot!  Make sure you crack open your green house when the temps get above freezing and the sun is shining.  

Saturday, November 22, 2025

How to read seed packets for planting your garden

Front of seed packet
Saturday, November 22, 2025

Seed packets are a wealth of information on the plant and its ideal growing conditions.  All give you the plant common and botanical name, many show you when to plant in your zone, when to plant in relationship to your frost date, how far apart to plant, what type of soil it grows well in, amount of sunlight needed for optimal growth, how many days from sowing until the plant is harvestable, and a detailed description of the highlights of the plant itself.  I love reading plant descriptions, looking for varieties that are "compact" and "prolific" for my small garden or "winter hardy" for winter gardening, or "heat tolerant" for summer gardening.  They give a wealth of information to decide what new variety or crop to try next.

On the front of the seed packet, you typically get the common name, the botanical name and a picture or drawing of the plant.  Some seed companies will also put a clay pot symbol on the front to indicate that the plant does well in a container (see pic of Burpee's seed packets below).  Many will also indicate if the plant is an annual or perennial (comes back every year).  Most also give a very short description of the plant.  They will also say if they are "organic" or "hybrid".  Some will also state if the plant is "open pollinated" or "heirloom".  

99% of what I grow is open pollinated or heirloom.  All heirlooms are open pollinated varieties that have been around for generations.  Open pollinated varieties come back "true" to their parents.  Hybrids won't necessarily come back the same as their parents.  I like saving seed from the plants that do well to plant again next year.    
Back of seed packet
On the back side of the seed packet there is a wealth of growing information.  You typically get when to plant the seed in relation to your frost date for both starting indoors and outdoors, germination time (how long does it take from when you plant the seed until it sprouts), how deep to plant the seed, any special treatment of the seed prior to planting, how far apart to space the seed, when/how to thin the emerging seedlings and days to harvest if it is an edible plant.  There is a longer description of the most desirable traits of the plant and which season it thrives in.  If a flower seed, it will give timing of flowering and height of the plant.   There will also be a date that the seed was packed for and a "sell by" date.  Unless you store in the refrigerator, germination rates dramatically decline after the first year and this varies by plant seed type.  I keep my seeds in the refrigerator in ziplock bags to keep them viable.  I have seeds that are over 10 years old and still have great germination rates.
Burpee's seed packet front even has the pot symbol for those that do well in  containers
Key attributes I am looking for to improve the productivity in my garden, I look for on the descriptors on the back.  Examples-if I want to maximize the harvest I get from a pepper plant, I will look for words like "prolific", "produces until frost", "continuous harvest".  If I am having a disease problem in my humid summer garden, I will look for words of "disease resistant", "powdery mildew resistant", "blight resistant" or whatever disease issue I am having.  For the best summer producers, look for terms like heat tolerant, thrives in hot temperatures, drought tolerant.  For the best cold season crops, look for terms like "winter hardy", "frost tolerant", etc.  If you want to harvest tomatoes all at once, look for the description "determinant".

With the crazy heat waves we are having now, I look for tomato varieties that do well in extreme heat.  Typical tomato plants produce sterile flowers at when temperatures are averaging 85F.  I'm going to buy a couple of new to me varieties that thrive in heat.  

For even more information about a particular variety, check on the seed company's web site or seed catalog.  When I first started gardening, I poured over Territorial Seed catalog.  Their catalogs have a detailed planting and growing guide for each family of vegetable seeds they offer.  Even now if a crop isn't doing the best, I will go back and look at all the great growing information that they have for every crop they sell seeds for.

I do look for varieties that have disease or pest resistance that I have experienced in my garden.  Squash bugs are a big problem in our area so I look for varieties that say they are squash bug resistant to try in my garden.  For example, I used to grow regular zucchini but they would also get ate up and diseased from squash bugs.  Now, I grow Trombetta squash that is not as attractive to squash bugs nor succumbs to disease.  

If you are growing flowers, what may be a strength for a vegetable can be a liability for a flower.  "Prolific" means it produces a lot which you typically want in a vegetable but in a flower that can be synonymous with "invasive".  A flowers that "self sows" means it produces many seeds that turn into more plants which can end up being invasive in your flower bed.  Think through what the descriptions mean for your bed and if it is a positive attribute or something you don't want to get started in your garden.

I use Johnny's Seeds web site for for their seed starting date calculator to plan out when to start my seeds indoors.  You plug in your last frost date and it spits out the dates for you on when to plant your seeds.  Baker Heirloom Seed puts out an enormous annual catalog that dives into the history and growing of different crops that I look forward to getting and reading every year.  They have a huge selection of all kinds of unusual varieties.  I try new varieties every year, along with the standbys that grow exceptionally well in my garden and garden conditions. 

Sunday, November 16, 2025

Reflections on the 2025 garden and the 2026 garden plan

Sunday, November 16, 2025

Late fall is an ideal time to reflect on the spring and summer gardening season and capture what went well, what didn't and what you want to do for your garden next year while the garden season is fresh in the mind.  I like to capture what varieties did well, what I planted too much or too little of, including the specific names before I forget.  I am forever trying to make the garden more productive and enjoyable.  I also like to make notes of what I want to learn more about over the winter.   

Here are my reflections on this year's garden............

Overall
In general, the garden did well in the spring, seed starting for spring and summer went well, was typical timing for producing summer veggies, and my fall seed starting struggled.  We actually had a real spring for the fifth year in a row.  This year, we had a crazy warm up at the end of winter, then back to chilly temperatures and a slow increase back to normal temperatures in June.  Late summer and fall had record heat that affected tomato production and my fall seed starting.

I went on the vole offensive this year and planted daffodils, marigolds and creeping thyme around all of my beds.  This did seem to help.  I just transplanted creeping thyme from our back garage bed to the berry bed in the spots the spring planted thyme did not make it.  Fall is a good time to plant perennials, including herbs.

I started a couple hundred creeping thyme and lavender plants from seed as well as several perennial flowers for the new front landscaping flower bed.  Of course, I always put edibles in my flower beds.  I think they are beautiful mixed in with flowers and also give you lots of nutritious tasty food to eat.

I was also able to use the creeping thyme plants and daffodil bulbs to put around the 2 new back beds and any empty spots in the existing beds in early spring.

I planted marigolds around all the beds as a vole and deer deterrent.  They're pretty and cold hardy to boot.  They really shine from a distance.

In the new back berry bed around the telephone pole, I planted Yard Long beans, Christmas Speckles lima beans, 1500 Year Old pole bean and winged beans to go up the guide wires and a Trombetta squash to meander under the berry bushes.  I didn't have enough compost to cover this bed until middle of the summer.  The berry bushes produced very little, had no winged beans, Christmas Speckles  or 1500 Year Old pole beans and the Yard Long beans took off in late summer.  The Yard Long beans were super productive so even with a short production window, I got all we need for the rest of the year.  Next season, I expect that everything will do much better in this bed with another round of compost and fertilizer.  Plus it takes a couple of winters for perennials to develop their root systems to support upward growth. 

I planted tomatoes, basil, cucumber, okra, sweet peppers, winter squash, marjoram in the basement bed along with cockscomb and marigolds.  I put peppers and eggplant in pots with snow peas around the bed behind the garage, as far into the sun as possible.  I always put petunias in each pot to add color.

I had many volunteer Blue Feather lettuce, Malabar spinach, Heavenly Blue morning glory, Red Hummingbird vine, basil, celosias, cock's comb, carrots, and Egyptian walking onions come up.  I grew all my lettuce, celery, spinach, cultivated dandelions, dill, parsley, chard, and sorrel in my larger self-watering pots.  

There were high points and not so great turn outs for the season.  Just your typical edible garden season!  

The good
  The lettuce, cultivated dandelions, bay laurel, sorrel, Egyptian walking onions, basil, celery, eggplant (Rosa and Turkish Orange), garlic chives, Japanese Mountain Spinach chard, Anaheim peppers, all but the banana sweet peppers and a Better Boy container tomato did very well.  Greens were the standouts in the spring.  The tomatoes planted upside down in 5 gallon buckets in the summer garden did fantastic from July into mid August but the extreme heat thereafter really throttled back production.  For some reason, the bucket planted and garden Cherokee Purple tomatoes died out early in the season.

In the volunteer department, Red Malabar spinach, Heavenly Blue morning glory, Husk Cherry, Giant Blue Feather lettuce, Blue Spice basil, celosia, Hummingbird vine and zinnias were prolific.  The volunteer Cock's Comb flowers had enormous flower heads.

For flowers I planted, almost all of the lavender plants survived and bloomed, the marigolds grew huge and their color was a vibrant addition to the beds, Snow on the Mountain really stood out.  It is a prolific self seeder so I picked up as many seeds as I could find and scattered them on a bank that is hard to mow along with celosia and zinnia seeds.  Come spring, I'll transplant natives onto the bank as well.

For the herbs I planted, sage including the multi colored varieties really did well, Cardinal and Genovese basil did extremely well this year.  Rosemary did pretty well.  Marjoram looked healthy but stayed small.  Butterfly papalo grew huge.  It is a super, heat loving substitute for cilantro.  It grew to about 7' tall.  I will definitely grow again but only need one plant and will put it in a different location since it is so tall.  The Red Roselle Hibiscus plants grew to over 6' tall and 6' wide.  They produced hundreds of calyxes in late fall.

The other plants that did well were Prescott Fond Blanc melon (prolific and tastes like cantelope),  spring greens, Egyptian walking onions, Dragon's Tail radish, newly planted and existing creeping thyme, Tricked You jalapeño plant was prolific as was the Habanado sweet pepper plants and Poblano chili powder peppers, and the Jerusalem artichoke plants grew to over 7' tall in their first year.

I got enough sweet and chili peppers frozen that I won't need to plant them for preserving next year.

Overall, I think I did a pretty good job of not overplanting.  I did have more sweet peppers than I needed but that was because I had leftover plants from a class I gave.  There are so many cool things you can grow it is hard to not want to try lots of new things!  The 2 new things I tried this year that will now be part of my yearly plan was Prescott Fond Blanc melon and Butterfly papalo as a substitute for cilantro.

We found a chemical that does kill Bermuda grass so we sprayed around most of the beds.  Will do the rest next summer.  You have to spray during the summer when Bermuda grass is active.

The okay
My Bush Champion cucumber, Red Burgundy okra, volunteer New Zealand spinach, rosemary, sweet Banana pepper, Trombetta zucchini, garlic, shallots, Giant Leaf mustard, Tamarillo, carrots, Sweet William flowers, Alpine strawberries and artichokes all did okay this year.  

The cucumber plant gave all I needed for salads and canning pickles up into August.  Okra started producing in August and gave all I needed for freezing.  It took a long time for the Trombetta to start producing but gave fruits until frost.   

I planted 2 artichoke plants and 4 Alpine strawberry plants.  Both the artichoke plants survived and one gave a flower.  I should have cut it because it really stressed the plant.  It did survive, though, so next year I should get flowers/fruits off both plants.  Only 2 of the Alpine Strawberry plants survived and they produced berries from late summer all the way through fall.

The shallots and garlic did well enough that I can separate the cloves and replant the largest.  I will have enough garlic cloves to pickle some.

The goji berry and Aronia bushes did decent this year.  I expect they will really go to town next year as it will be their second year in the garden.  The dwarf Tamarillo tree did not produce an abundance of fruits and the flavor was interesting.  I will bring the plant in this winter as it is a tropical but I won't be planting more of them.

I planted Sweet William flowers around the borders of the beds with marigolds.  The marigolds grew so large they grew over the Sweet William.  The Sweet William plants did well and flowered all season but just weren't as visible as the marigolds.  Sweet William is a tender perennial so I will not replace any that don't make it through the winter.  I will replant marigolds since they are very heat tolerant, do very well in my garden, deter deer and voles, and are real show stoppers covered in their yellow and orange flowers.  Since they grow so large, I will plant half as many and spaced twice as far apart as this year.

The bad
The butternut and Ayote Green winter squash and Lemon Drop watermelon didn't produce any fruits.  Only got a handful of berries from the blackberry bushes, raspberry bushes, new strawberry bed and blueberry bushes. 

The snow peas, winged beans only gave a few pods.  The potatoes were tiny and full of holes.  I was using potato boxes and should have removed the sides when I planted them but did not take the time.

My sweet potato vines were doing fantastic until a fawn discovered that it loved the leaves and ate it to the ground several times.

My 1500 Year Old pole bean and Christmas Speckles lima bean vines barely grew and gave no pods.  They were planted in the new bed that I didn't have compost for until late summer.  Will try again next year.

The perennial potato onions and bulbing onions did not grow much.  I'll leave them to see if they get bigger over the winter.

I did not get any Love Lies Bleeding amaranth volunteers this year and the Giant Golden amaranth I planted died out.  So did the chervil, Hilton Chinese cabbage, orach and pink celery.  Only had one Chinese Bicolor Spinach amaranth volunteer in a pot and it did well.

I did sow Hilton Chinese cabbage again for fall.  They are super cold hardy and tasty in salads.

I got the worst tomato harvest ever.  I didn't plant a huge number as I had all the sauce I needed from last year's crop.  Between the frozen left from last year and what we froze from this year, there should be enough in the freezer to last until next summer.  The extreme heat we had this summer just stopped all fruiting.  When temperatures stay in the mid to upper 90's, tomato flowers become sterile and won't product any fruits.  This is the last year we will be doing the upside down buckets.  Next year, we will put all the plants into the ground.  Since the ground stays cooler than the buckets, it should help production with the summers we are now having. 

Winter learning 
Will research how to maximize berry bush and strawberry bed production.   Will scour the seed catalogs for other small fruits I can grow in the garden.  I put berries on my morning yogurt so want to have enough that I grow to eat them year round. 

Next year's garden
I just built a small stone retaining wall in the back garage bed.  Today I will add chicken bedding and leaf mulch to add fertility.  I hope this will provide the tilth and nutrition needed for onions and carrots that did not do the best back there this year.  Plus, it will make the bed more level.
 
Here is my garden plan for next year:
Purple Yard Long pole beans, 1500 Year Old bean vine and Christmas speckles lima beans on separate guide wires.  Plant with Hummingbird vine and Red Malabar spinach?
Urizun Japanese winged bean in a pot as it loves the heat
Red Burgundy okra (2 in the garden bed)
10 tomato plants-large paste (Italian Red Pear), slicers (Cherokee Purple and an orange/yellow), a small fruit (Chocolate Pear), a storage tomato (tbd), Brandywine and an early variety like Rubee Dawn
3 eggplant-AO Daimura, Antigua or Rotanda Bianca or Rosa, Shiromaru or Amadeo (in pot)
1 bush cucumber, 1 vining cucumber (in garden bed)
1 summer squash-Trombetta since it is resistant to vine borer, disease and squash bugs
2 winter squash-Butternut and fun other one like Ayote or warted
Perennial onions-potato onion type and Egyptian Walking onion sweet and cooking varieties
Hardneck garlic, Elephant garlic and shallots
Potatoes in the potato boxes (get seed potatoes from store and purple perennial potatoes from actual seed)
Snow peas in pots with peppers and eggplants
Dragon Tail radish in pot or garden by sprouting broccoli
Hilton Chinese cabbage (2 plants)
New Zealand in pot (1)
Lettuce (Royal Oakleaf, Grand Rapids, Butter King, Bronze Beauty, Celtic, Forellenschluss, Giant Blue Feather, Yedikule, Red Sails, Romaine) and spinach in pots
Greens that stay sweet in summer-Orach, Amaranth, Chard-Perpetual Spinach and Fordhook, Chinese Multicolor Spinach, Purple Stardust Iceplant, Komatsuna, Giant Leaf mustard
Herbs-Dill, Basil (Nunum, Genovese, Cardinal), Papalo (cilantro substitute), Lion's Ear, Rosemary (try a couple new "hardy" varieties), Chervil.  Parsley, sage, pink celery and marjoram if they don't survive the winter.
Sweet pepper plants for fresh eating (1 bell and 1 snacker).  Overwintering Chiltepin, Jigsaw and Baklouti hot pepper plants and Habanada sweet pepper plants are overwintering indoors.
Cantaloupe-Tigger melon or Prescott Fond Blanc
Small fruits-Tamarillo overwintering indoors, Husk Cherry volunteers, restart 2 Alpine Strawberry varieties, others?
Flowers-zinnias, alyssum, marigolds, Cock's Comb, peach hollyhocks, blue morning glory, Love Lies Bleeding, Moonflower?, Others?


Saturday, November 15, 2025

What survived the hard freeze

Fall sunrise
Saturday, November 15, 2025

Last week we had 2 nights in a row in the mid 20's.  Anything thing below 28 F is considered a hard freeze.  So what survived in the garden and what's next for continued harvests through winter.  

The first hard freezes of the fall killed the edibles and ornamentals that hail from tropical regions like Yard Long beans, eggplant, basil, Malabar spinach, sweet potatoes, zinnias, celosias, amaranths, heat tolerant lettuce, potted tomatoes and peppers, Jerusalem artichokes, red roselle hibiscus, squash, American groundnut, okra, tarragon.

What's still green in the garden beds are marigolds, Sweet William, petunias, lavender, mums, day lilies, lemon balm, chives, onions, cold tolerant lettuce, kale, chard, parsley, celery, carrots, chicory, mustard greens, artichoke plants, wolf berry bush, Aronia bush, strawberry plants, blackberry and raspberry bushes, most of the Mediterranean herbs like sage, marjoram, thyme, oregano, rosemary.

To maximize the winter harvests, I got out my portable green house covers for my potted greens and snow peas.  The best place to locate your plants and greenhouse is close to a wall and on the south side of the house in full sun.  Putting the greenhouse against the house or other structure will help keep the temperatures warmer for your plants.  I also use gallon jugs of water that I put around the pots inside the cover to help moderate the temperatures.  Spray painting the jugs protects the plastic from sun degradation.  Extend the season with protection for plants  
My winter pots and Earthboxes contain kale, celery, French dandelion, lettuce, sorrel, sprouting broccoli, parsley, chard and arugula.  I should be able to have fresh greens and snow peas all winter long using these.
Portable greenhouse
The biggest risk with a greenhouse?  Overheating!  The sun’s rays are quite hot on a cloudless day.  I open the vent on my greenhouses when it is sunny and in the 30’s.  I will unzip the front door flap when it gets into the 40’s.   In the 50’s, the cold crops really don’t need any protection.  

The crops that do well in early spring are the ones that do well over the winter in a greenhouse.  Cold crops I like to grow under cover are arugula, broccoli, cabbage, celery, chard, cilantro, corn salad, kale, lettuce, mustard greens, parsley, peas, sorrel, spinach, parsley, cultivated dandelions.  Cold season crops for your edible garden